Well this damn crud that I have just doesn't want to go away. I basically have fallen into a pattern of sleeping two hours, then awake for two hours. Then add to the fact that the people in the room above me seemed to be dancing and jumping all night...no it isn't what you think it is. I called down three times to ask the security to check it out, but I don't thing they took the initiative to find out what the noise was about. Finally I had to change rooms at 4AM. The hotel was basically booked, but they could move me to a room with two double beds. Anything to get me away from Ginger Rodgers and Fred Astaire (if you are under 40 google Fred and Ginger).
I get to my new room after several apologizes from the baggage helper and I finally nod off only to wake up two hours later. I do get up and eat breakfast at the executive lounge. But I almost nodded off sitting and eating breakfast. At the same time, my nose is running, my sinuses are tight and I now have a headache. I get back to the room about 8AM and of course I nod off and get back up around 11AM. I decide to take a shower to maybe have the shower mist help my coughing. Actually I felt relaxed after the shower. but I made the mistake of laying down to read. I again fall asleep around 1PM and woke up around 4PM. I guess I'll need to just suck it up.... try and stay awake. I hit the executive lounge for appetizers but lay off the wine for ginger ale.
Back in the room I start to pack for my trip to Mt. Fuji and Kyoto. I am signed up with a tour which I usually don't do, but decide this time to let "someone else do the driving". I'll probably try and squeeze everything into my backpack and red gym bag, then check the two big bags with bag storage at the hotel, as I did in Rio, Nairobi, Amsterdam and Bangkok when I took side trips from these cities.
Friday, November 28, 2014
November 27, 2014 Shinjuku, Getting Worse, Japanese Culture and Presentation
I'm staying in the Shinjuku area which is just west of Ginza, where I will be staying starting Dec. 1-5. The area is very busy with business people on the go. I also notice children always walking together in various sized groups. I found out that this is common place since Japanese children are taught about the importance of group dynamics, not the individual.
My cold/flu is getting worse by the hour, so I need to ease back and try and get a handle on this.
I have able to find out some interesting facts and information on the culture, habits and expectations of the Japanese.
CLEAN- I still just can't get over that you don't see anything that would even resemble trash, graffiti or garbage. It is not usual to see someone pick up someone's trash along the streets. You also can find shopkeepers up before day break sweeping and hosing off the front of their businesses. There are plenty of tress in Tokyo proper, but you don't find any leaves on the streets or grassy areas. I found it is very important to the Japanese that they show a positive face to foreigners and especially tourist...Parisians could learn a few things about this. It is not unusual to find school children cleaning up the school buildings and grounds before leaving for the day.
POLITENESS - No matter where you go and no matter the person's rank, title or commonality of the person, you can always expect a greeting of the head bowed or as much as a bend at the waste...several times in some cases. There is almost a shyness of the Japanese in meeting other people. It is important that the Japanese do not sound loud or boisterous especially around foreigners. Also, no one starts to eat or drink until someone, usually the host or the most senior of the group, starts first.
PUNCTUAL - This is one I could live with because it is something that was always one of my pet peeves. All the trains, buses, subways especially are punctual. When I was catching the Bus to take me from the airport to the hotel, the schedule called for a 2;40 arrival and a 2:50 departure. Needless to say , it arrived at 2:40 and left at 2:50. It was also interesting at the bus stop, that the three exact uniformed men that were helping to load luggage, all stood in a perfect line and bowed to the bus and its people as it left the curb.
KIND-The Japanese people are so very kind to their own people as well as foreigners. When they visit another family or a business associate, one always brings a gift. Amongst their own friends and family it would generally be food. In business, a bottle of wine or fine liquor is appreciated. I was reading where General MacArthur came into Japan after WWII to administer the reconstruction of the cities, he was struck by the kindness of the people so much that he insisted his troops carry the same kindness in return.
HARD WORKING-This is a quality that is ingrained in the Japanese soul, It is a interest dynamic that wasn't always there before WWII. Many of the Japanese products produced up through the 1950's were notorious for the poor quality and effort by its workers. When one had something that broke one would say, "Must be made in Japan". I now can say the economics class that I took in the 70's is paying off, because I remember learning about Dr. Edwards Deming. Deming was bought over from the US to teach theJapanese business principles primarily in Quality Control (QC). Part of the QC process was the mindset of the workers to produce a quality product and this resulted in a more dedicated employee. To this day, most workers will stay extra time after their "contracted" hours to finish a project or provide additional customer service. There is no such thing as "overtime". It is considered rude to leave at the exact time of the contracted work day.
RESPECTFUL-Japanese are very considerate people, especially as one gets older. Senior citizens are considered teachers of the young. As with many Asian families, all family members will live together, on the same street or in the same neighborhood.
INTELLIGENT-The stereotype of Asian and especially Japanese people being intelligent is due to the intense pressure of the youth to get the most out of their education. There is a series of testing throughout the Japanese educational system that "guides" the student toward a certain career based on these year end testing days. This also puts pressure on the children because it is important to them not to disappoint their parents.
GROUPING- I think I mentioned this previously but grouping is a way of life young and old. A word of advice to any English speaking teachers in Japan. Unlike in America, where the group is often disliked because sharing the workload with other students inevitably means that it gets divided unequally, Japanese students thrive off of grouping. They prefer not to have to voice their opinions alone, but would rather share ideas with their peers and make a group decision. I remember again reading about Deming and his success with quality control and its success in altering the mindset of the Japanese. It is interesting that I used a lot of these principles in my own management style. Hire smart, hard working and loyal people, make them part of your inter-circle and give the group a sense of empowerment. That business acumen is referred to as "Japanese Style Management".
Okay end of lesson.
My cold/flu is getting worse by the hour, so I need to ease back and try and get a handle on this.
I have able to find out some interesting facts and information on the culture, habits and expectations of the Japanese.
CLEAN- I still just can't get over that you don't see anything that would even resemble trash, graffiti or garbage. It is not usual to see someone pick up someone's trash along the streets. You also can find shopkeepers up before day break sweeping and hosing off the front of their businesses. There are plenty of tress in Tokyo proper, but you don't find any leaves on the streets or grassy areas. I found it is very important to the Japanese that they show a positive face to foreigners and especially tourist...Parisians could learn a few things about this. It is not unusual to find school children cleaning up the school buildings and grounds before leaving for the day.
POLITENESS - No matter where you go and no matter the person's rank, title or commonality of the person, you can always expect a greeting of the head bowed or as much as a bend at the waste...several times in some cases. There is almost a shyness of the Japanese in meeting other people. It is important that the Japanese do not sound loud or boisterous especially around foreigners. Also, no one starts to eat or drink until someone, usually the host or the most senior of the group, starts first.
PUNCTUAL - This is one I could live with because it is something that was always one of my pet peeves. All the trains, buses, subways especially are punctual. When I was catching the Bus to take me from the airport to the hotel, the schedule called for a 2;40 arrival and a 2:50 departure. Needless to say , it arrived at 2:40 and left at 2:50. It was also interesting at the bus stop, that the three exact uniformed men that were helping to load luggage, all stood in a perfect line and bowed to the bus and its people as it left the curb.
KIND-The Japanese people are so very kind to their own people as well as foreigners. When they visit another family or a business associate, one always brings a gift. Amongst their own friends and family it would generally be food. In business, a bottle of wine or fine liquor is appreciated. I was reading where General MacArthur came into Japan after WWII to administer the reconstruction of the cities, he was struck by the kindness of the people so much that he insisted his troops carry the same kindness in return.
HARD WORKING-This is a quality that is ingrained in the Japanese soul, It is a interest dynamic that wasn't always there before WWII. Many of the Japanese products produced up through the 1950's were notorious for the poor quality and effort by its workers. When one had something that broke one would say, "Must be made in Japan". I now can say the economics class that I took in the 70's is paying off, because I remember learning about Dr. Edwards Deming. Deming was bought over from the US to teach theJapanese business principles primarily in Quality Control (QC). Part of the QC process was the mindset of the workers to produce a quality product and this resulted in a more dedicated employee. To this day, most workers will stay extra time after their "contracted" hours to finish a project or provide additional customer service. There is no such thing as "overtime". It is considered rude to leave at the exact time of the contracted work day.
RESPECTFUL-Japanese are very considerate people, especially as one gets older. Senior citizens are considered teachers of the young. As with many Asian families, all family members will live together, on the same street or in the same neighborhood.
INTELLIGENT-The stereotype of Asian and especially Japanese people being intelligent is due to the intense pressure of the youth to get the most out of their education. There is a series of testing throughout the Japanese educational system that "guides" the student toward a certain career based on these year end testing days. This also puts pressure on the children because it is important to them not to disappoint their parents.
GROUPING- I think I mentioned this previously but grouping is a way of life young and old. A word of advice to any English speaking teachers in Japan. Unlike in America, where the group is often disliked because sharing the workload with other students inevitably means that it gets divided unequally, Japanese students thrive off of grouping. They prefer not to have to voice their opinions alone, but would rather share ideas with their peers and make a group decision. I remember again reading about Deming and his success with quality control and its success in altering the mindset of the Japanese. It is interesting that I used a lot of these principles in my own management style. Hire smart, hard working and loyal people, make them part of your inter-circle and give the group a sense of empowerment. That business acumen is referred to as "Japanese Style Management".
Okay end of lesson.
Wednesday, November 26, 2014
November 26, 2014 Leaving Bangkok, Stopover in Taipei, Tokyo
Today I leave for Tokyo around noon. Taking a look back on my Bangkok stay, I sort of wish I had picked a different location, since I'd been here previously. My original plan was to go to Mumbai, India but I had some people convince me otherwise. I wished I'd gone with my first instinct. The best part of my stay was actually taking the side trip to Kathmandu, Nepal.
Nevertheless, I jammed everything into two cases instead of three. So my 60 lbs bag in more like 70 lbs. but it still should be under the limit for international bag allowance. But in order to get back into the US Im going to have to get it down 50 lbs. I'm not sure why there is such a difference, but then again there are differences in flying international carriers vs. US international carriers. The most noticeable is customer service, which international airlines do such a better job. The check-in process is much more efficient. I never had to wait in a line for more than 5 minutes. There always seem to be several more agents than you would find in the states. Probably the most noticeable is the on-board personnel. The experiences I had, either as a coach or business class patron, were generally above anything you would find on a US international carrier. The food was much more tasty and seem to have a real diverse menu as well.
I arrive at Bangkok Airport, which I think I expressed earlier is now one of my favorites. I roll my 2 bags and carry my heavy back-pack up to a different airline, China Airlines, and check-in. I will be flying business again and hope they don't spoil my already positive feelings about international airline service. Again, there is no waiting in line. I get a premium pass to get through security more quickly, though as usual I'm two hours ahead of my flight time. I get through immigration very quickly, again no line, and head toward China Airlines security check-in. Now I run into a problem. They do not let me take a bottle of my expensive cologne and a half tube of toothpaste through because they are both over by 1 ounce! Really! I've been through security around the world and never had a problem. They insist that I can not take these through and suggest going back to the ticket confer to arrange to have them put in my suitcase, which quite frankly couldn't hold even a pair of socks its so jammed packed. Of course, I don't want the hassle of going back to the counter, so I reluctantly give them up. So, tonight there will be some security person smelling good for his wife/girl friend tonight.
I have a pass for the executive lounge and had quite a time trying to find it in the maize of stores and other lounges in the airport. I get to the lounge and it is quite full. The entire lounge is entirely made up of Chinese and Japanese and with my Caucasian look I get stared at by all. The lounge is fully equipped with food and drink, all Asian. I grab a bowl of miso soup and some bread and I'm all set. I don't have much of an appetite due to the Benadryl and Advil that I'm taking for this "crud" that I have picked up along the way. I leave the lounge after an hour and head to the gate. The waiting area is quite crowded and no seats empty. So since I will be seating for the next hour on this B-747, I'll stand for a bit. We are called to board and again no problem in the boarding process. I'm offered a WSJ to read and champagne to drink, but I'll have to pass and have OJ instead.
We will be taking a flight to Tokyo with a stop in Taipei. I will digress here to explain to my grandkids and the people that didn't pay attention in their world geography class, who and what is Taipei.
Taipei is a large island off the coast of Mainland China that is not communist, but a separate Chinese democracy . Here is a bit of history about Taipei. On December 7, 1949, the Kuomintang (KMT) government under Chiang Kai-shek, which was opposed to the communist takeover by Mao-Tse-tung, a communist leader, established Taipei as the provisional capital of the ROC after the Communists forced them to flee mainland China. Taipei was also the capital of Taiwan Province until the 1956 when the provincial administration was moved to Chunghsing Village in central Taiwan. However, the PRC does not recognize this move and still regards Taipei as the provincial capital of Taiwan. The primary difference in the two countries is that China is communist controlled, while Taipei is democratic controlled. Thus the US helps support Taipei militarily and economically, which is not acceptable to China.
In order to get to Taipei, our stop before transferring to another China Airlines flight to Narita Airport in Tokyo, we will fly over Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam before heading over the South China Sea.
The arrival is late 50 minutes into Taipei City and my connecting flight is due to leave in 10 minutes. But again that customer service is there to solve the problem. There is a gate agent that has two names on a board that are to transfer to the Tokyo gate escorted by her. The nice young lady in her pink and beige colored official looking uniform escorts us directly to the gate, while bypassing the security line in the transfer hall. We get to the gate and we are about 10 minutes past flight time, but they waited for us. I can't say that ever happened to me in the US! So my entire time in Taipei on the ground was about 30 minutes, so can I count that on my "having been there" list as being in the country?
The flight to Tokyo was very good and I enjoyed a typical Japanese meal, with only chopsticks. I'm pretty good with the chopsticks so I don't have to embarrass myself in asking for a fork. I'm still feeling a bit on the rough side with this cold or flu whatever it is that I have, so I by pass the great wine offerings.
We arrive on time at Narita Airport, which is still quite far from the central area of Ginza, where I eventually will stay. I knew we would be getting in late, so I arranged a hotel at the airport weeks ago, so I wouldn't be trying to negotiate my way to the downtown area late at night. I sure glad I did that because of how I'm feeling.
Nevertheless, I jammed everything into two cases instead of three. So my 60 lbs bag in more like 70 lbs. but it still should be under the limit for international bag allowance. But in order to get back into the US Im going to have to get it down 50 lbs. I'm not sure why there is such a difference, but then again there are differences in flying international carriers vs. US international carriers. The most noticeable is customer service, which international airlines do such a better job. The check-in process is much more efficient. I never had to wait in a line for more than 5 minutes. There always seem to be several more agents than you would find in the states. Probably the most noticeable is the on-board personnel. The experiences I had, either as a coach or business class patron, were generally above anything you would find on a US international carrier. The food was much more tasty and seem to have a real diverse menu as well.
I arrive at Bangkok Airport, which I think I expressed earlier is now one of my favorites. I roll my 2 bags and carry my heavy back-pack up to a different airline, China Airlines, and check-in. I will be flying business again and hope they don't spoil my already positive feelings about international airline service. Again, there is no waiting in line. I get a premium pass to get through security more quickly, though as usual I'm two hours ahead of my flight time. I get through immigration very quickly, again no line, and head toward China Airlines security check-in. Now I run into a problem. They do not let me take a bottle of my expensive cologne and a half tube of toothpaste through because they are both over by 1 ounce! Really! I've been through security around the world and never had a problem. They insist that I can not take these through and suggest going back to the ticket confer to arrange to have them put in my suitcase, which quite frankly couldn't hold even a pair of socks its so jammed packed. Of course, I don't want the hassle of going back to the counter, so I reluctantly give them up. So, tonight there will be some security person smelling good for his wife/girl friend tonight.
I have a pass for the executive lounge and had quite a time trying to find it in the maize of stores and other lounges in the airport. I get to the lounge and it is quite full. The entire lounge is entirely made up of Chinese and Japanese and with my Caucasian look I get stared at by all. The lounge is fully equipped with food and drink, all Asian. I grab a bowl of miso soup and some bread and I'm all set. I don't have much of an appetite due to the Benadryl and Advil that I'm taking for this "crud" that I have picked up along the way. I leave the lounge after an hour and head to the gate. The waiting area is quite crowded and no seats empty. So since I will be seating for the next hour on this B-747, I'll stand for a bit. We are called to board and again no problem in the boarding process. I'm offered a WSJ to read and champagne to drink, but I'll have to pass and have OJ instead.
We will be taking a flight to Tokyo with a stop in Taipei. I will digress here to explain to my grandkids and the people that didn't pay attention in their world geography class, who and what is Taipei.
Taipei is a large island off the coast of Mainland China that is not communist, but a separate Chinese democracy . Here is a bit of history about Taipei. On December 7, 1949, the Kuomintang (KMT) government under Chiang Kai-shek, which was opposed to the communist takeover by Mao-Tse-tung, a communist leader, established Taipei as the provisional capital of the ROC after the Communists forced them to flee mainland China. Taipei was also the capital of Taiwan Province until the 1956 when the provincial administration was moved to Chunghsing Village in central Taiwan. However, the PRC does not recognize this move and still regards Taipei as the provincial capital of Taiwan. The primary difference in the two countries is that China is communist controlled, while Taipei is democratic controlled. Thus the US helps support Taipei militarily and economically, which is not acceptable to China.
In order to get to Taipei, our stop before transferring to another China Airlines flight to Narita Airport in Tokyo, we will fly over Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam before heading over the South China Sea.
The arrival is late 50 minutes into Taipei City and my connecting flight is due to leave in 10 minutes. But again that customer service is there to solve the problem. There is a gate agent that has two names on a board that are to transfer to the Tokyo gate escorted by her. The nice young lady in her pink and beige colored official looking uniform escorts us directly to the gate, while bypassing the security line in the transfer hall. We get to the gate and we are about 10 minutes past flight time, but they waited for us. I can't say that ever happened to me in the US! So my entire time in Taipei on the ground was about 30 minutes, so can I count that on my "having been there" list as being in the country?
The flight to Tokyo was very good and I enjoyed a typical Japanese meal, with only chopsticks. I'm pretty good with the chopsticks so I don't have to embarrass myself in asking for a fork. I'm still feeling a bit on the rough side with this cold or flu whatever it is that I have, so I by pass the great wine offerings.
We arrive on time at Narita Airport, which is still quite far from the central area of Ginza, where I eventually will stay. I knew we would be getting in late, so I arranged a hotel at the airport weeks ago, so I wouldn't be trying to negotiate my way to the downtown area late at night. I sure glad I did that because of how I'm feeling.
Tuesday, November 25, 2014
November 24, 2014 Full Blown Hacking, Out and About
I woke up in the middle of the night with a full blown coughing attack. I had taken some advil before I went to bed but didn't seem to help. So I decided to take a long hot shower to see if the steam would help the cough...it did and I was able to get a couple more hours of sleep. I need to watch out for myself because I've been prone over the years to slight cases of pneumonia. I've had gotten the pneumonia shot a few years ago, but it never seem to help.
I have to get out of this place. I can't stand to be cooped up somewhere inside, even at home. So, I decided to go back to the Pat Pong area and do a little more shopping at the everyday market. I always seem to be in the mood to buy, but not myself. I just like buying for others, probably to a fault. So you can guess at Christmas, I do go a bit crazy. I did buy a couple of cool Nepalese shirts for myself for $4US each in Kathmandu. I also need to buy a "bigger boat", since my carry-on that I bought in Amsterdam won't fit my purchased items any longer. I stroll for about two hours and start to feel bad again, so I start making my way back to the hotel.
Sure hope this little "hiccup" doesn't last long. My Tokyo trip is in a couple of days and I want to be a little fitter when I get there.
I have to get out of this place. I can't stand to be cooped up somewhere inside, even at home. So, I decided to go back to the Pat Pong area and do a little more shopping at the everyday market. I always seem to be in the mood to buy, but not myself. I just like buying for others, probably to a fault. So you can guess at Christmas, I do go a bit crazy. I did buy a couple of cool Nepalese shirts for myself for $4US each in Kathmandu. I also need to buy a "bigger boat", since my carry-on that I bought in Amsterdam won't fit my purchased items any longer. I stroll for about two hours and start to feel bad again, so I start making my way back to the hotel.
Sure hope this little "hiccup" doesn't last long. My Tokyo trip is in a couple of days and I want to be a little fitter when I get there.
November 23, 2014 Cough-Cough, Progressive Bangkok, Democracy to Militaristic State
Not much going on today. I'm starting to get a bit congested and coughing. I think all the pollution and dust from my visits to Rio, Nairobi, Maasai Mara, Bangkok and Kathmandu has taken its toll. I should have used one of the masks I bought along on the trip. But, it just didn't seem too stylish. I actually finished that Gresham novel I was reading and watched the new Doors documnetary movie that just came out on Itunes. Sundays are a bit quite here in Bangkok, though I found that to be true at a lot of the places that I have been. It's as if Blue Sunday is alive and well in other countries.
I'm still pretty impressed with what has happened to Bangkok since I was here over 20 years ago. Back then the city was so polluted it was difficult to see across the street. Additionally, the sewage system, if there was one, was not up to date and you could always count on smelling something awful while walking the streets. There were not too many "new buildings" back then. The economy was not very progressive.
Now, Bangkok is thriving with new infrastructure: super highways, mass public transportation, sewage systems (don't smell a thing except for the street food vendor preparations). The horizon is covered with new modern buildings/shopping centers/malls. There is a real vibrant feel to the city.
Where did all the money come from to move Bangkok and Thailand from a third world country to a thriving metropolis? China. The Chinese has been putting billions of dollars into building infrastructures and upgrading housing into third world countries. I found this just starting to happen in Kenya as well. Seems China is moving away from the militaristic approach to winning and influencing their enemies.
The building of Thailand over the years has had its political problems. The country has been a democratic one until the last year when a military coup happened. There also is guerrilla warfare going on in the southern portion of Thailand. Since the coup, there has been a "rounding up" of previous democratically elected officials and their staffs accused of billions of dollars in kickbacks, political favoritisms, bribes and bloated offshore cash accounts. Progress seems to always bring out the worst in people.
I'm in early tonight, still coughing my head off. I guess I better start taking care of myself for a few days.
I'm still pretty impressed with what has happened to Bangkok since I was here over 20 years ago. Back then the city was so polluted it was difficult to see across the street. Additionally, the sewage system, if there was one, was not up to date and you could always count on smelling something awful while walking the streets. There were not too many "new buildings" back then. The economy was not very progressive.
Now, Bangkok is thriving with new infrastructure: super highways, mass public transportation, sewage systems (don't smell a thing except for the street food vendor preparations). The horizon is covered with new modern buildings/shopping centers/malls. There is a real vibrant feel to the city.
Where did all the money come from to move Bangkok and Thailand from a third world country to a thriving metropolis? China. The Chinese has been putting billions of dollars into building infrastructures and upgrading housing into third world countries. I found this just starting to happen in Kenya as well. Seems China is moving away from the militaristic approach to winning and influencing their enemies.
The building of Thailand over the years has had its political problems. The country has been a democratic one until the last year when a military coup happened. There also is guerrilla warfare going on in the southern portion of Thailand. Since the coup, there has been a "rounding up" of previous democratically elected officials and their staffs accused of billions of dollars in kickbacks, political favoritisms, bribes and bloated offshore cash accounts. Progress seems to always bring out the worst in people.
I'm in early tonight, still coughing my head off. I guess I better start taking care of myself for a few days.
Sunday, November 23, 2014
November 22, 2014 Time to Leave, Temples/Shrines, Hairy Cab Ride, Exploited Labor
Today is the last day in Kathmandu. I've learned a lot about Nepalese's ancient history and culture. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world, but it is one of the friendliest that I have come to know in my years of travel. I believe much of it has to due with their ability to be tolerant. Despite having a predominant Hindu population, the two major religions of Nepal, Hinduism and Buddhism, have blended and co-existed in utter harmony and mutual respect. The country has also shown a high degree of religious tolerance and reverence towards other faiths as well, such as Christianity and Muslim. The followers of the two predominant religions visit and worship each other’s holy places as not seen or experienced elsewhere in the world. Kathmandu has mosques, churches and a Sikh gurudwara, some of them grandly located in the city’s busiest centres, where devotees offer their prayers according to their faith.
One of the questions I had was the difference between a shrine and a temple. I found varied answers but the simplest is a temple, of Buddhism origin, is a varied designed building that is worshipped by a community. Each temple is dedicated to a holy or inspired person in history. A shrine is of a more personal nature, usually small and square (though there are exceptions) and found in neighborhoods or even outside one's home. Most shrines in Patan, where I had been staying, have been erected to remember an ancient/past family member(s). It is both a Hindu and Buddhism belief that past family members that lived a "clean" life carry special "powers" that can be past on to living family members. There are special holidays throughout the year that celebrates the "ancients". Dashain is probably the most revered holiday as it last about 15 days. The start of the holiday may be in September or October, depending on several factors, which are a little complicated. I found a good explanation on Dashain and other holidays on wikipedia, wikipedia.org/wiki/Dashain. I highly encourage you to read the site. Each day of the holiday has a special significance. It is a holiday that is very controversial as well. The holiday has a emphasis on peace, family and tolerance, but practices in sacrifice of animals are still abundant. It should be noted that the animals are used for personal food and skins can be used for the household or sold for sustenance. Animal rights advocates have been trying for years to stop the practice that has been in play for hundreds of years going back as much as two centuries.
The guest house office is closed today, so I don't get a chance to say good bye to my host. The flat in the renovated Newari villa was very nice. Considering the dusty and dirty air surrounding the entire Kathmandu Valley, this place was well kept and cleaned each day.
I walk to the Patan Durfar Square to catch a cab near the edge of the temple area. There is a lot I didn't cover about Patan, but again wikipedia, wikipedia.org/wiki/Patan,_Nepal, has additional information on this most interesting and ancient city. I find a cab, that looks like it and it's driver were both on their last legs, and negotiate a $600NR fare, about $6US to the airport. The ride was an adventure in itself. The cabbie seem to have his own short cuts through some of the darkest alleys and roadways, mostly of dirt and rock. I first thought maybe I was about to become a hostage/kidnapped victim. Each time we came to a stop for animals or people, I would make sure my window was up and door locked. It took about 15 minutes to negotiate our way to the main Kathmandu highway, which is in the midst of a major upgrade with plants, flowers and road repairs. Still, it took another 20 minutes to get to the airport. We had just turned into the gateway of the airport when we came to a dead stop and became part of a line of vehicles. We would ease our way up to a check point with about a half dozen armed tough looking bereted militia, that was looking in every vehicle. It came our turn and one of the security men asked where I was from and asked for my passport. I did not hesitate to pull it from my shirt pocket and hand it to the cabbie, who in turn handed to the green camouflaged military officer. He took a look, gave me a big smile, and said "thank you, sorry for inconvenience" in perfect English.
I make it to the small Kathmandu airport and it is packed with people coming and going. I find the departure door and enter in a lobby where I find I must fill out a departure card. After about ten minutes and letting two other people borrow my pin, I then proceeded to a long line. After 30 minutes I made it to the front and it was an x-ray machine for baggage. I set my luggage on the metal machine and it worked its way through while I walked through the security archway. I passed through with no alarms, but the security person asked me to step aside and did a mild frisk. Then he asked me "do you have any drugs on you, hashish and (something I didn't understand)". I said no and I was released to capture my luggage. Now I was able to go to the Thai Airlines check-in line. Since I'm traveling economy the line for that seating assignment is long as well. I'm sure glad I started to the airport three hours before my departure. While in line a uniformed official of Thai came up to me and ask for my passport, what now! He looked at the outside and noticed my US Passport and guided me up to a tasseled draped line away from the other passengers. No one was in line and a nicely officially dressed Thai Airline agent ask for my passport. Special treatment for some reason. Do I look like Steve Spielberg, Brad Pitt or Jerry Garcia (oh yeah he is dead) to get pulled out of line for this special treatment? Maybe it was because I was the tallest and largest person in line! Nevertheless, I then proceeded to customs, that only took about ten minutes in line. Finally! Not quite yet.
There was another three side-by-side long lines, with no sight of the front, that I would have to stand in for over 45 minutes. This airport, while it seems it has air conditioning, was not keeping up with the large number of people. When I could finally see the front of the line there was another security check, this time for carry on luggage. Didn't we do this about two hours ago? I finally send my bag through but it stops after I walk through the security archway with no alarm. Seems at the end of the baggage belt a vendor had sent a large amount of plastic bagged ready to eat noodle servings through the X-ray machine and they had all spilt on the rubber belt inside the X-ray machine. The armed security men at the end of the belt were not pleased. There were noodles everywhere. They stopped the line and had a maintenance person come and clean up the mess. Now my bag has not made it through yet. I'm wondering how much of the noodle mess was going to be in and about my backpack. Once the mess was cleaned up, while the poor vendor was continually verbally abused by the security personnel, my bag came through. Noodles were hanging off the top of my bag. The guards were amused, but did give me a towel to brush off the collection of yellow colored pasta.
I proceeded to my gate area because now I'm within 30 minutes of departure. Our course, this is a day of waiting, my flight has not even arrived yet and is now scheduled for one hour late departure. While I try and find a scarce open seat, I smell it...chicken soup. Great now I' going to smell this the rest of the day, as will other people around me. My patience is becoming a bit thin at this point. Yesterday, I remember reading some passages from a book I picked up at one of the kiosks in Patan Durfur Square on Buddhism. I think it is something like a"Buddhism for Dummies". I read about the importance of patience and tolerance. Both are signs of personal strength and enlightenment. Okay let's see if I can calm down and practice a little bit of this new found awareness. I close my eyes, think of a most pleasant place or person and spiritually put myself in the picture. Hey that worked pretty well. It also made me think simply. Just find a restroom and wash the back pack and yourself down. I remember now that I always carry antiseptic cleanser and a bar of soap in a plastic bag in my backpack. I find the restroom, which cost $100NR, about a $1US, to use the facilities. Want toilet paper or towel? Thats another $.50US. I pay the fee to a feeble looking gentleman and start washing everything down with stares and smirks from the crowd in the restroom. What else is interesting about this restroom is that both men and women use it, but know one seems to notice, except me.
Okay all washed down, even put on more deodorant and cologne, and I'm now refreshed and calm. May have to read a little more of that Buddhism stuff. The lobby area consists of five gate areas that are packed with people seating in the few chairs, but most are standing. One thing I learned about gate areas, always go to the farthest part of the area, because most people will try and stay in the more immediate area. That worked, because I found an area away from the maddening crowd with a departure screen right in front of the chair that I found.
I also noticed something else in the area. There were several hundred young men, no women, milling around a gate area that had no number assigned to it. They were all about 16-25 years old with many having far away looks, almost in despair. I was sitting next to another passenger that was from Ireland and ask him who were all these young men, some sort of educational group. He gave a bit of a chuckle and said, "it's a slave plane". A what? He explained to me it was a group of boys/men that were on their way to somewhere to work. He explained to me about Nepalese workers going to other countries to work. Okay I think I've read about this somewhere along the line.
Now, my curiosity is getting the best of me. I leave my comfortable and premium scarce seat, which was quickly gobbled up by an old wrinkled Asian lady that probably needed it more than me. I walk over to where the group had been standing for the last 30 minutes, as if waiting for someone to move them on to the next spot. There were a few seats available but there was no way I was going to get one of them. I heard someone speaking English so I maneuvered myself in that direction. There was a boy that couldn't have been more than 18 years old and I said hello. "Namaste", Nepalese for hello. He told me his name was Sam, doesn't sound to Nepalese to me. I asked where he was going and said he was going to Qatar to work on the football (soccer) stadiums for the World Cup. Though most in line didn't look too happy, this young man seemed genuinely excited. I asked him how did he get a job in Qatar. He then explained to me about having to pay (a loan) $40,000NR, or $400US to an agency for the "privilege" of working on the stadiums. I asked him how much he was getting paid and he proudly said $10,000NR per month, about $100US. I thought that to be appalling. I asked him what he did with that money and he said the agency promised they would help get most of his earnings to his mother, he never knew his father. He said his living expenses were free in Qatar, so it would leave him a lot of money left over. I ask him where the plane he was to board was located. He pointed out to a plane that had no commercial markings, that seemed to be a private B-737. Just about this time an older adult, that looked as if he was an airport official, broke through the crowded line and ask if this was my plane. I said no, that my gate had not been assigned yet as a pointed to the departure screen. I explained I was just talking to the boys. He gave the boy a very sinister stare, then smiled at me and said he would help me find the right gate. I gave him my flight information since my gate was not yet assigned. I said "subha din" which I found out is a loosely form of "have a good day". Several of the boys gave me the traditional hand prayer signal and a slight bow, "namaste". Now namaste is like aloha, it can mean good bye or hello. After I was "escorted" to my gate I asked the red coated airport official where those men were going. He gave me a forced smile and said "on a holiday".
I continued to be curious about workers going to Qatar and used the last minutes on my cheap calling/data card and googled for information. There was plenty of information on the subject...all very controversial. Nepal apparently is one of the largest export of "slave paid labor" to Qatar. Over 400 workers have died from what Qatarian officials call "cardiac arrest" in the last three years. Also, the "free" living arrangements are not much more than concentration camps with little clean running water and food not fit for animals. Workers are forced to buy decent food with their limited income. Workers do not have return tickets back to their homes, so getting out is almost impossible. I'm just appalled at the overall abuse these gentle people from a country known for tolerance and peace.
Our plane has arrived and is turned around very quickly and we take off late at the time that was announced. I can't get my mind off that young man and wonder how he will be treated in a strange land. Will his mother get the money that he planned so proudly on sending her? Will he be part of the documented abuses of the labor force in Qatar? Did I get him in trouble for talking to me so freely in the "slave line".
I get into the 8 year old Bangkok airport and arrive to the anthesis of the Kathmandu airport. This is by far one of the most modern and technically equipped airports that I've seen, though I hear the new Singapore airport is comparable. I get quickly through all the check lines and my baggage is waiting for me. I checked one of my bags since I had a few things in it that I couldn't carry-on. Don't worry nothing illegal. I use the cab queue that is so simple and efficient. I just push the kiosk button and it gives me a number "23". I walk a short distance to that cab space and it is waiting for me with it's trunk already open. I get a traditional clasped hand prayer sign and a bow. Wouldn't a greeting like that at a cab queue be pleasant to experience, say at O'Hare in Chicago?! I'm back at the Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok and check in and escorted to the 17th floor by the baggage handler I had checked my big bags in the hotel's storage upon my departure for Nepal five days ago. It was delivered within 10 minutes of my arrival. First thing I do is fill up the deep bath tub with the bubble bath that is one of their freebies and soak for about 30 minutes. I don't think I appreciated a bath more than the one I'm taking around midnight.
One of the questions I had was the difference between a shrine and a temple. I found varied answers but the simplest is a temple, of Buddhism origin, is a varied designed building that is worshipped by a community. Each temple is dedicated to a holy or inspired person in history. A shrine is of a more personal nature, usually small and square (though there are exceptions) and found in neighborhoods or even outside one's home. Most shrines in Patan, where I had been staying, have been erected to remember an ancient/past family member(s). It is both a Hindu and Buddhism belief that past family members that lived a "clean" life carry special "powers" that can be past on to living family members. There are special holidays throughout the year that celebrates the "ancients". Dashain is probably the most revered holiday as it last about 15 days. The start of the holiday may be in September or October, depending on several factors, which are a little complicated. I found a good explanation on Dashain and other holidays on wikipedia, wikipedia.org/wiki/Dashain. I highly encourage you to read the site. Each day of the holiday has a special significance. It is a holiday that is very controversial as well. The holiday has a emphasis on peace, family and tolerance, but practices in sacrifice of animals are still abundant. It should be noted that the animals are used for personal food and skins can be used for the household or sold for sustenance. Animal rights advocates have been trying for years to stop the practice that has been in play for hundreds of years going back as much as two centuries.
The guest house office is closed today, so I don't get a chance to say good bye to my host. The flat in the renovated Newari villa was very nice. Considering the dusty and dirty air surrounding the entire Kathmandu Valley, this place was well kept and cleaned each day.
I walk to the Patan Durfar Square to catch a cab near the edge of the temple area. There is a lot I didn't cover about Patan, but again wikipedia, wikipedia.org/wiki/Patan,_Nepal, has additional information on this most interesting and ancient city. I find a cab, that looks like it and it's driver were both on their last legs, and negotiate a $600NR fare, about $6US to the airport. The ride was an adventure in itself. The cabbie seem to have his own short cuts through some of the darkest alleys and roadways, mostly of dirt and rock. I first thought maybe I was about to become a hostage/kidnapped victim. Each time we came to a stop for animals or people, I would make sure my window was up and door locked. It took about 15 minutes to negotiate our way to the main Kathmandu highway, which is in the midst of a major upgrade with plants, flowers and road repairs. Still, it took another 20 minutes to get to the airport. We had just turned into the gateway of the airport when we came to a dead stop and became part of a line of vehicles. We would ease our way up to a check point with about a half dozen armed tough looking bereted militia, that was looking in every vehicle. It came our turn and one of the security men asked where I was from and asked for my passport. I did not hesitate to pull it from my shirt pocket and hand it to the cabbie, who in turn handed to the green camouflaged military officer. He took a look, gave me a big smile, and said "thank you, sorry for inconvenience" in perfect English.
I make it to the small Kathmandu airport and it is packed with people coming and going. I find the departure door and enter in a lobby where I find I must fill out a departure card. After about ten minutes and letting two other people borrow my pin, I then proceeded to a long line. After 30 minutes I made it to the front and it was an x-ray machine for baggage. I set my luggage on the metal machine and it worked its way through while I walked through the security archway. I passed through with no alarms, but the security person asked me to step aside and did a mild frisk. Then he asked me "do you have any drugs on you, hashish and (something I didn't understand)". I said no and I was released to capture my luggage. Now I was able to go to the Thai Airlines check-in line. Since I'm traveling economy the line for that seating assignment is long as well. I'm sure glad I started to the airport three hours before my departure. While in line a uniformed official of Thai came up to me and ask for my passport, what now! He looked at the outside and noticed my US Passport and guided me up to a tasseled draped line away from the other passengers. No one was in line and a nicely officially dressed Thai Airline agent ask for my passport. Special treatment for some reason. Do I look like Steve Spielberg, Brad Pitt or Jerry Garcia (oh yeah he is dead) to get pulled out of line for this special treatment? Maybe it was because I was the tallest and largest person in line! Nevertheless, I then proceeded to customs, that only took about ten minutes in line. Finally! Not quite yet.
There was another three side-by-side long lines, with no sight of the front, that I would have to stand in for over 45 minutes. This airport, while it seems it has air conditioning, was not keeping up with the large number of people. When I could finally see the front of the line there was another security check, this time for carry on luggage. Didn't we do this about two hours ago? I finally send my bag through but it stops after I walk through the security archway with no alarm. Seems at the end of the baggage belt a vendor had sent a large amount of plastic bagged ready to eat noodle servings through the X-ray machine and they had all spilt on the rubber belt inside the X-ray machine. The armed security men at the end of the belt were not pleased. There were noodles everywhere. They stopped the line and had a maintenance person come and clean up the mess. Now my bag has not made it through yet. I'm wondering how much of the noodle mess was going to be in and about my backpack. Once the mess was cleaned up, while the poor vendor was continually verbally abused by the security personnel, my bag came through. Noodles were hanging off the top of my bag. The guards were amused, but did give me a towel to brush off the collection of yellow colored pasta.
I proceeded to my gate area because now I'm within 30 minutes of departure. Our course, this is a day of waiting, my flight has not even arrived yet and is now scheduled for one hour late departure. While I try and find a scarce open seat, I smell it...chicken soup. Great now I' going to smell this the rest of the day, as will other people around me. My patience is becoming a bit thin at this point. Yesterday, I remember reading some passages from a book I picked up at one of the kiosks in Patan Durfur Square on Buddhism. I think it is something like a"Buddhism for Dummies". I read about the importance of patience and tolerance. Both are signs of personal strength and enlightenment. Okay let's see if I can calm down and practice a little bit of this new found awareness. I close my eyes, think of a most pleasant place or person and spiritually put myself in the picture. Hey that worked pretty well. It also made me think simply. Just find a restroom and wash the back pack and yourself down. I remember now that I always carry antiseptic cleanser and a bar of soap in a plastic bag in my backpack. I find the restroom, which cost $100NR, about a $1US, to use the facilities. Want toilet paper or towel? Thats another $.50US. I pay the fee to a feeble looking gentleman and start washing everything down with stares and smirks from the crowd in the restroom. What else is interesting about this restroom is that both men and women use it, but know one seems to notice, except me.
Okay all washed down, even put on more deodorant and cologne, and I'm now refreshed and calm. May have to read a little more of that Buddhism stuff. The lobby area consists of five gate areas that are packed with people seating in the few chairs, but most are standing. One thing I learned about gate areas, always go to the farthest part of the area, because most people will try and stay in the more immediate area. That worked, because I found an area away from the maddening crowd with a departure screen right in front of the chair that I found.
I also noticed something else in the area. There were several hundred young men, no women, milling around a gate area that had no number assigned to it. They were all about 16-25 years old with many having far away looks, almost in despair. I was sitting next to another passenger that was from Ireland and ask him who were all these young men, some sort of educational group. He gave a bit of a chuckle and said, "it's a slave plane". A what? He explained to me it was a group of boys/men that were on their way to somewhere to work. He explained to me about Nepalese workers going to other countries to work. Okay I think I've read about this somewhere along the line.
Now, my curiosity is getting the best of me. I leave my comfortable and premium scarce seat, which was quickly gobbled up by an old wrinkled Asian lady that probably needed it more than me. I walk over to where the group had been standing for the last 30 minutes, as if waiting for someone to move them on to the next spot. There were a few seats available but there was no way I was going to get one of them. I heard someone speaking English so I maneuvered myself in that direction. There was a boy that couldn't have been more than 18 years old and I said hello. "Namaste", Nepalese for hello. He told me his name was Sam, doesn't sound to Nepalese to me. I asked where he was going and said he was going to Qatar to work on the football (soccer) stadiums for the World Cup. Though most in line didn't look too happy, this young man seemed genuinely excited. I asked him how did he get a job in Qatar. He then explained to me about having to pay (a loan) $40,000NR, or $400US to an agency for the "privilege" of working on the stadiums. I asked him how much he was getting paid and he proudly said $10,000NR per month, about $100US. I thought that to be appalling. I asked him what he did with that money and he said the agency promised they would help get most of his earnings to his mother, he never knew his father. He said his living expenses were free in Qatar, so it would leave him a lot of money left over. I ask him where the plane he was to board was located. He pointed out to a plane that had no commercial markings, that seemed to be a private B-737. Just about this time an older adult, that looked as if he was an airport official, broke through the crowded line and ask if this was my plane. I said no, that my gate had not been assigned yet as a pointed to the departure screen. I explained I was just talking to the boys. He gave the boy a very sinister stare, then smiled at me and said he would help me find the right gate. I gave him my flight information since my gate was not yet assigned. I said "subha din" which I found out is a loosely form of "have a good day". Several of the boys gave me the traditional hand prayer signal and a slight bow, "namaste". Now namaste is like aloha, it can mean good bye or hello. After I was "escorted" to my gate I asked the red coated airport official where those men were going. He gave me a forced smile and said "on a holiday".
I continued to be curious about workers going to Qatar and used the last minutes on my cheap calling/data card and googled for information. There was plenty of information on the subject...all very controversial. Nepal apparently is one of the largest export of "slave paid labor" to Qatar. Over 400 workers have died from what Qatarian officials call "cardiac arrest" in the last three years. Also, the "free" living arrangements are not much more than concentration camps with little clean running water and food not fit for animals. Workers are forced to buy decent food with their limited income. Workers do not have return tickets back to their homes, so getting out is almost impossible. I'm just appalled at the overall abuse these gentle people from a country known for tolerance and peace.
Our plane has arrived and is turned around very quickly and we take off late at the time that was announced. I can't get my mind off that young man and wonder how he will be treated in a strange land. Will his mother get the money that he planned so proudly on sending her? Will he be part of the documented abuses of the labor force in Qatar? Did I get him in trouble for talking to me so freely in the "slave line".
I get into the 8 year old Bangkok airport and arrive to the anthesis of the Kathmandu airport. This is by far one of the most modern and technically equipped airports that I've seen, though I hear the new Singapore airport is comparable. I get quickly through all the check lines and my baggage is waiting for me. I checked one of my bags since I had a few things in it that I couldn't carry-on. Don't worry nothing illegal. I use the cab queue that is so simple and efficient. I just push the kiosk button and it gives me a number "23". I walk a short distance to that cab space and it is waiting for me with it's trunk already open. I get a traditional clasped hand prayer sign and a bow. Wouldn't a greeting like that at a cab queue be pleasant to experience, say at O'Hare in Chicago?! I'm back at the Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok and check in and escorted to the 17th floor by the baggage handler I had checked my big bags in the hotel's storage upon my departure for Nepal five days ago. It was delivered within 10 minutes of my arrival. First thing I do is fill up the deep bath tub with the bubble bath that is one of their freebies and soak for about 30 minutes. I don't think I appreciated a bath more than the one I'm taking around midnight.
Friday, November 21, 2014
November 21, 2014 Cheat, Walk to Lagankhel and Jawalakhel, Pimbahal Pukhu, Afternoon Tea, Last Night in Nepal
Well another good sleep, no band playing parades at 6AM. So I get up around 10AM and decided tea is just not going to hack it this morning. I'm going to have to cheat on the Nepal meal schedule. I noticed last night that the Cafe Swotha across the street had a breakfast menu. So this morning its an American Breakfast of eggs over easy, toast, ham, bacon, sausage and coffee. There, now I feel much better. Today is the last full day in Kathmandu. I'm still disappointed about not being able to take the helicopter to Mt. Everest.
I take a walk to the area called Lagankhel which is due south of Patan. This area is very active with traffic. Its streets are bigger and wider...and more honking motorcycles. There also is a very large bazaar again selling everything from soup to nuts. In the middle of the square is a transportation center for buses and it is packed with people and eager bus drivers trying to get down the road. One of the main hospitals and 24 hour emergency care is located here as well. I took a picture of this place: all windows were open with people hanging out them, a pile of dirt and rocks at the entrance and a few broken windows. Please ankle please hold up for one more day. I end up buying a couple for trinkets and move on to my next hike to Jawalakel.
Jawalakel is located due east of Durbar Square and about a 20 minute walk from Lagankel. This seems to be where the major college and schools are located. The grounds are very nice to include a football (soccer) field and park area. UNESCO is located here as well. UNESCO is a division of the United Nations that contributes to building peace, alleviating poverty, and fostering sustainable development and intercultural dialogue in Nepal through education, science, culture, communication and information. In other words there here to help people get ahead. This area is where the National Nepal Zoo is located. I decide not to go since it will be a bit of a disappointment after being in the Serengeti a few weeks ago.
I start my walk back to home base, the Cozy House, and along the way I come across a park with a small pond called Pimbahal Pukhu. It has a beautiful doomed shaped shrine with a stone walkway leading up to its entrance. I notice a makeshift boat in the small brown water pond with four children aboard. One male child has a long pole that seems to be moving the boat, made of six large empty plastic barrels attached to a metal deck. I look a little closer and they are actually going around the pond picking up trash off the surface ...a good deed for the day. I have pictures and video on FaceBook.
I finish my picture taking and continue my way west toward Durbar Square. I arrive and there is a ceremony going on and I asked someone what's the occasion. This is the start of Balachaturdashi one of the pious festivals of the Hindus. The importance of this festival is to offer obeisance in the commemoration of deceased ancestors (antecedents). Antecedents are believed to be equal as the God in the Hindu mythology. Mythology explains that: though the God wishes to present us some thing, the antecedents can stop us from obtaining the things. So without appeasing to the antecedents we can't get any fruitful awards. I had to look it up. While there I ran into a couple of dudes that looked like they were dressed for halloween, but in fact they were holy men called Sadhus. They are religious holy men that live off the land and depend on people to help them in there quest for perfection. In the countryside they will live in caves or off the land. In cities, like Kathmandu, they will live at or near a temple or shrine. They are also teachers of meditation. I got a great video of them with me on FaceBook.
I'm near the guest house so I go there and have high tea at the tea cafe next to the entrance of the guest house. Now its getting a little dark so I find another cafe near the square called the White House. Its a bit off the beaten path but the food was editable, not as good as some of the other places that I have visited. I have a dish called momo which is like a veggie dumpling.
I head back to the guest house and its time to call it a night. What I'm finding out is that the city literally closes down at night, primarily because it does not have the street light infrastructure to support having places open. Also the culture here is that night time is to be with family. I need to pack, for its back to Bangkok tomorrow for three more days before heading to Tokyo.
I take a walk to the area called Lagankhel which is due south of Patan. This area is very active with traffic. Its streets are bigger and wider...and more honking motorcycles. There also is a very large bazaar again selling everything from soup to nuts. In the middle of the square is a transportation center for buses and it is packed with people and eager bus drivers trying to get down the road. One of the main hospitals and 24 hour emergency care is located here as well. I took a picture of this place: all windows were open with people hanging out them, a pile of dirt and rocks at the entrance and a few broken windows. Please ankle please hold up for one more day. I end up buying a couple for trinkets and move on to my next hike to Jawalakel.
Jawalakel is located due east of Durbar Square and about a 20 minute walk from Lagankel. This seems to be where the major college and schools are located. The grounds are very nice to include a football (soccer) field and park area. UNESCO is located here as well. UNESCO is a division of the United Nations that contributes to building peace, alleviating poverty, and fostering sustainable development and intercultural dialogue in Nepal through education, science, culture, communication and information. In other words there here to help people get ahead. This area is where the National Nepal Zoo is located. I decide not to go since it will be a bit of a disappointment after being in the Serengeti a few weeks ago.
I start my walk back to home base, the Cozy House, and along the way I come across a park with a small pond called Pimbahal Pukhu. It has a beautiful doomed shaped shrine with a stone walkway leading up to its entrance. I notice a makeshift boat in the small brown water pond with four children aboard. One male child has a long pole that seems to be moving the boat, made of six large empty plastic barrels attached to a metal deck. I look a little closer and they are actually going around the pond picking up trash off the surface ...a good deed for the day. I have pictures and video on FaceBook.
I finish my picture taking and continue my way west toward Durbar Square. I arrive and there is a ceremony going on and I asked someone what's the occasion. This is the start of Balachaturdashi one of the pious festivals of the Hindus. The importance of this festival is to offer obeisance in the commemoration of deceased ancestors (antecedents). Antecedents are believed to be equal as the God in the Hindu mythology. Mythology explains that: though the God wishes to present us some thing, the antecedents can stop us from obtaining the things. So without appeasing to the antecedents we can't get any fruitful awards. I had to look it up. While there I ran into a couple of dudes that looked like they were dressed for halloween, but in fact they were holy men called Sadhus. They are religious holy men that live off the land and depend on people to help them in there quest for perfection. In the countryside they will live in caves or off the land. In cities, like Kathmandu, they will live at or near a temple or shrine. They are also teachers of meditation. I got a great video of them with me on FaceBook.
I'm near the guest house so I go there and have high tea at the tea cafe next to the entrance of the guest house. Now its getting a little dark so I find another cafe near the square called the White House. Its a bit off the beaten path but the food was editable, not as good as some of the other places that I have visited. I have a dish called momo which is like a veggie dumpling.
I head back to the guest house and its time to call it a night. What I'm finding out is that the city literally closes down at night, primarily because it does not have the street light infrastructure to support having places open. Also the culture here is that night time is to be with family. I need to pack, for its back to Bangkok tomorrow for three more days before heading to Tokyo.
Thursday, November 20, 2014
November 20, 2014 "Hare Krishna's", UN Water Project, Music, Kukri and Disappointment.
Yeah a normal sleep. Tried something different, I have earplugs and a sleeping mask from the the flight from Nairobi to Bangkok, so I put those on. It seemed to help. I actually was awaken, even with my earplugs inserted, by a noise outside about 6AM. It first sounded like bells ringing. As the noise became louder I started to hear chanting. It reminded me of the Hari Krishna's that I use to see a lot of back in the 70-80's in their orange robes and shaved heads. Later that morning, when I descended from my 3rd floor loft, I asked Camille what the noise was about 6AM. I have to take this moment and say how wonderful Camille and her "family" and associates have been during my visit. It has made up for the terrible places I stayed in Rio de Janeiro and Paris. I'll need to be sure to write a good review on the flight back to Bangkok. Anyway, she said she didn't hear anything and asked her partner who was sitting across the room on a computer. He said it was probably priests going to morning prayer. Apparently they were use to this occurring and slept right through the disturbance.
Today needs to be shopping day because tomorrow, late morning, I'm taking a helicopter flight that takes you up to Mt Everest. I've never been in a helicopter so this will be another new adventure for me.
I take a different path from the Cozy House toward the Pulchowk Area. Before I get to much farther on this blog, I suggest you google some of these places I'm mentioning. They have some really interesting history and would be worth your trouble. I'm only highlighting some of the information. The Pulchowk is where the United Nations has a large presence with a Water and Sanitation Project. They have been working in the Kathmandu Valley and specifically the Patan area, given it had some of the worse sanitation and clean water concerns for centuries. The UN came in a few years ago and built neighborhood clean water taps and worked to clean up the "slums" of the area. Camille, my host at Cozy House, is working on her own project in trying to revitalize her neighborhood, Swotha Square. I'll need to be sure to buy something from the shops in this "cozy" little square.
I find some good deals in Pulchowk and buys a few trinkets. I also find a couple of neat places. The first was a music store. The place has been in the same location for three generations. It has a front window display of some unique looking instruments, most I've never seen or know how they sound. I have to go in and check this place out. The one person, that I find later is the owner, is trying to haggle with some Brit on something looking like a small minature violin with a bow. So I start walking around and see all these unique musical instruments, especially the hand made drums of different sizes, colors and material. Not one looks the same. The gentleman walks over and I said, "just looking around". He smiles and said would I like to hear the story of the shop. You bet, I'm all ears. He explains that his grandfather started the shop back in the 1920's primarily making drums and he points to the large display on the far corner of the shop. His father joined him in the 1940's and started make their own unique instruments primarily drums and string instruments. The current owner then came in around the 1970's and started to invent his own blend of unique instruments, with the idea of building instruments of sound using beads, beans, rocks, animal skins and hair. I convinced him to show me a few while I shot some video. Check out FaceBook for that show. The shop also had a work area in the back where now just the father and son build and create, The back area is filled with different kinds of wood, animal skins, string, yarn and various machines and tools. The music store also serves as a repair shop, mostly to restore old instruments. The rest of the store, about 25% of it, has more traditional instruments but most are very old and probably antiques. Guitars, brass horns, violins, accordions to name a few. He pulls down the accordion and starts playing..he's pretty good. So I ask him how many instruments can he play? He gives me a look like "really!" He indicates he can play them all. He says to pick an instrument, so I see an old trumpet hanging from the ceiling and he gets it down. He plays Mary Had a Little Lamb and doesn't miss a beat. I just love this guy, but now I feel guilty not buying anything. So I buy two of the instruments that he played in the video. We part, but I'm glad I meet this guy and visited his shop. Maybe I can help his business by giving a good word on Travel Advisor.
The next place was a little hard to find. I had heard of speciality store that make a traditional Nepalese knife called a kukri. It has an inward curved blade and can be used as a utility or as a weapon. The knife is centuries old, primarily used by armies in the area, but it must have certain characteristics to be called a kukri. The Nepalese armies of centuries past made the knife and it has been a figure in Nepalese culture since. I had to ask around and nobody seem to know where a shop was located, They kept referring me to the bazaar, but those are cheap imitations. I read up on this venture before I started so I know they have shops exclusively for the kukri. Someone asked me to follow him, when I enquired, to an old man...had to be 100 years old. He slowly got up and we walked a few blocks, through a couple of long narrow alleys. I felt like I was in the old Casablanca movie (if you are under 40 google it). We come to a small shop with a cloth door. We enter and its a haven for kukri's, hundreds of them of all sizes, but of course all the same shape. The one man that had referred us to the old man, whispered to me that I might want to slip the old man some change for his help. I had no problem paying a referral fee. I didn't have any small change but gave him $100NR, about $1. The old man was so pleased he kept giving me the traditional prayer and bow salute, like they do in Thailand, as he walked out. Okay let's see what you have. This guy was really proud of his product and it showed. He must have pulled out 20-30 knives of different size and variety. He explained them all in detail. I may have bought some but I may not have bought some...it's a secret.
It is now getting late and again I want to get in before it gets dark. I get back just before it gets dark about 5PM. I remember Camille telling me about a cafe just across the way from the guest house, so I walk across the street, trying to avoid the annoying honking motor cycles. Cafe Swotha is part of a bed and breakfast type place, not like the guest house. I walk in and find a delightful place with about 10 tables, half of them filled. I have a seat and order my usual Everest Beer and a Nepalese meal called the Feast. Now don't forget I haven't eaten all day, you know trying the cultural Nepalese approach to meals. I have some of the same things I've had before: dal baht (lentil and rice soup), chicken masu (in gravy) and alu dum (fried potato in spicy gravy). This time add some newbies: alu acchaa (pickled veggies), khaki mo masuledo (mutton curry) and phagshapa (pigs feet or pork with chiles and spices). Yes I do eat pigs feet. It was like trying to get meat off a skinny chicken wing. I was stuffed about 3/4 through the meal, but I remember how guilty I felt on the picnic under the acacia tree on the Maarai Masa plains a few weeks ago in Kenya. I couldn't leave food on my plate. So I order another Everest and finished off the rest. Done...I thought. The waiter brings out a huge piece of chocolate brownie with skiami (yogurt with spices and cherries). Should I have him take it back? If I don't accept it it doesn't count as not finishing, does it? Of course I eat it...as long as someone finds a wheelbarrow to take me out. This wonderful meal was $1200NR, about $13US.
I walk out and decide I need to walk off this meal, but it is dark, so I need to maneuver the streets very gingerly. I walk around the Paton Durbur Square. I didn't know this before but they have a nice night meditation that goes on around the temples in the square. The sounds were of low volume chanting, chimes and bells ringing. I walked around the square for about 15 minutes, then headed to my abode.
I generally do not have my phone on during the day, due to the high cost of data and voice. The morning when I wake up and at night are usually my voice and data time. I queue up my phone and there is a message. Due to haze/fog and high winds on Everest my helicopter adventure is cancelled for tomorrow, "but call back and they can reschedule for Sunday". Damn, I'm gone on Saturday. I'm really disappointed. Maybe for the better since it was going to be very expensive.
Today needs to be shopping day because tomorrow, late morning, I'm taking a helicopter flight that takes you up to Mt Everest. I've never been in a helicopter so this will be another new adventure for me.
I take a different path from the Cozy House toward the Pulchowk Area. Before I get to much farther on this blog, I suggest you google some of these places I'm mentioning. They have some really interesting history and would be worth your trouble. I'm only highlighting some of the information. The Pulchowk is where the United Nations has a large presence with a Water and Sanitation Project. They have been working in the Kathmandu Valley and specifically the Patan area, given it had some of the worse sanitation and clean water concerns for centuries. The UN came in a few years ago and built neighborhood clean water taps and worked to clean up the "slums" of the area. Camille, my host at Cozy House, is working on her own project in trying to revitalize her neighborhood, Swotha Square. I'll need to be sure to buy something from the shops in this "cozy" little square.
I find some good deals in Pulchowk and buys a few trinkets. I also find a couple of neat places. The first was a music store. The place has been in the same location for three generations. It has a front window display of some unique looking instruments, most I've never seen or know how they sound. I have to go in and check this place out. The one person, that I find later is the owner, is trying to haggle with some Brit on something looking like a small minature violin with a bow. So I start walking around and see all these unique musical instruments, especially the hand made drums of different sizes, colors and material. Not one looks the same. The gentleman walks over and I said, "just looking around". He smiles and said would I like to hear the story of the shop. You bet, I'm all ears. He explains that his grandfather started the shop back in the 1920's primarily making drums and he points to the large display on the far corner of the shop. His father joined him in the 1940's and started make their own unique instruments primarily drums and string instruments. The current owner then came in around the 1970's and started to invent his own blend of unique instruments, with the idea of building instruments of sound using beads, beans, rocks, animal skins and hair. I convinced him to show me a few while I shot some video. Check out FaceBook for that show. The shop also had a work area in the back where now just the father and son build and create, The back area is filled with different kinds of wood, animal skins, string, yarn and various machines and tools. The music store also serves as a repair shop, mostly to restore old instruments. The rest of the store, about 25% of it, has more traditional instruments but most are very old and probably antiques. Guitars, brass horns, violins, accordions to name a few. He pulls down the accordion and starts playing..he's pretty good. So I ask him how many instruments can he play? He gives me a look like "really!" He indicates he can play them all. He says to pick an instrument, so I see an old trumpet hanging from the ceiling and he gets it down. He plays Mary Had a Little Lamb and doesn't miss a beat. I just love this guy, but now I feel guilty not buying anything. So I buy two of the instruments that he played in the video. We part, but I'm glad I meet this guy and visited his shop. Maybe I can help his business by giving a good word on Travel Advisor.
The next place was a little hard to find. I had heard of speciality store that make a traditional Nepalese knife called a kukri. It has an inward curved blade and can be used as a utility or as a weapon. The knife is centuries old, primarily used by armies in the area, but it must have certain characteristics to be called a kukri. The Nepalese armies of centuries past made the knife and it has been a figure in Nepalese culture since. I had to ask around and nobody seem to know where a shop was located, They kept referring me to the bazaar, but those are cheap imitations. I read up on this venture before I started so I know they have shops exclusively for the kukri. Someone asked me to follow him, when I enquired, to an old man...had to be 100 years old. He slowly got up and we walked a few blocks, through a couple of long narrow alleys. I felt like I was in the old Casablanca movie (if you are under 40 google it). We come to a small shop with a cloth door. We enter and its a haven for kukri's, hundreds of them of all sizes, but of course all the same shape. The one man that had referred us to the old man, whispered to me that I might want to slip the old man some change for his help. I had no problem paying a referral fee. I didn't have any small change but gave him $100NR, about $1. The old man was so pleased he kept giving me the traditional prayer and bow salute, like they do in Thailand, as he walked out. Okay let's see what you have. This guy was really proud of his product and it showed. He must have pulled out 20-30 knives of different size and variety. He explained them all in detail. I may have bought some but I may not have bought some...it's a secret.
It is now getting late and again I want to get in before it gets dark. I get back just before it gets dark about 5PM. I remember Camille telling me about a cafe just across the way from the guest house, so I walk across the street, trying to avoid the annoying honking motor cycles. Cafe Swotha is part of a bed and breakfast type place, not like the guest house. I walk in and find a delightful place with about 10 tables, half of them filled. I have a seat and order my usual Everest Beer and a Nepalese meal called the Feast. Now don't forget I haven't eaten all day, you know trying the cultural Nepalese approach to meals. I have some of the same things I've had before: dal baht (lentil and rice soup), chicken masu (in gravy) and alu dum (fried potato in spicy gravy). This time add some newbies: alu acchaa (pickled veggies), khaki mo masuledo (mutton curry) and phagshapa (pigs feet or pork with chiles and spices). Yes I do eat pigs feet. It was like trying to get meat off a skinny chicken wing. I was stuffed about 3/4 through the meal, but I remember how guilty I felt on the picnic under the acacia tree on the Maarai Masa plains a few weeks ago in Kenya. I couldn't leave food on my plate. So I order another Everest and finished off the rest. Done...I thought. The waiter brings out a huge piece of chocolate brownie with skiami (yogurt with spices and cherries). Should I have him take it back? If I don't accept it it doesn't count as not finishing, does it? Of course I eat it...as long as someone finds a wheelbarrow to take me out. This wonderful meal was $1200NR, about $13US.
I walk out and decide I need to walk off this meal, but it is dark, so I need to maneuver the streets very gingerly. I walk around the Paton Durbur Square. I didn't know this before but they have a nice night meditation that goes on around the temples in the square. The sounds were of low volume chanting, chimes and bells ringing. I walked around the square for about 15 minutes, then headed to my abode.
I generally do not have my phone on during the day, due to the high cost of data and voice. The morning when I wake up and at night are usually my voice and data time. I queue up my phone and there is a message. Due to haze/fog and high winds on Everest my helicopter adventure is cancelled for tomorrow, "but call back and they can reschedule for Sunday". Damn, I'm gone on Saturday. I'm really disappointed. Maybe for the better since it was going to be very expensive.
November 19, 2014 Walk About in Kathmandu, Cafe Dhokaima, People Watching
Well up at 4AM, back to sleep at 6AM, back up at 11AM. EGADS! Before the day begins I am sending my daughter Erika a Happy Birthday message in Nepalese. She turns 42 today or tomorrow in her part of the world.I'm taking a walk-about (term I picked up in Australia for a stroll) to a little more out of my comfort zone. I'm going to an area known for a little seedier clientele, but prices are better on things. I'm using my Google Maps app, which is proving to be very helpful because the map I bought yesterday seems to missing streets and/or their names. Also learned a trick with Google Maps. If you download the app before you go out, you don't have to have wi-fi or have to turn on your data off your phone. It will work with everything off. So I am heading to an area called Patan Dhoka where the Golden Temple is located. The area was initially designed in the shape of the Buddhist Dharma-Chakra (Wheel of Righteousness). The word Patan, by the way, is the area of Khatmandu that I am staying. It would be like calling it south side of Chicago. The Patan Dhoka is best known for its rich cultural heritage, particularly its tradition in arts and crafts. I did find a nice buy on 100% certified pashmina, not the stuff they try and pass off as pashmina on the streets of NYC. Pashmina is the fine delicate warm wool of Capra Hiscus, a goat that lives in the high attitude of 14,000-16,000 feet in the Himalayas. The inner coat of the goat is called pashmina. Most pashmina products that are shipped to US and other countries are a blend of pashmina and other wool of different animals. After visiting the Golden Buddha, which is a Buddha of gold, I find a cafe that was recommended by a guide book that was provided at the guest house where I'm staying, Cafe Dhokaima. The information had told me not to be disturbed about the seedy location, because once you enter the doorway I would be pleased. It was right on, once you enter, past the unattractive area and bad signage, a whole new world with a beautiful garden setting with colorful flowers, greenery and white clothed tables for 2 or 4. I actually had to wait 15 minutes for a table to open up. Once I was seated the waitperson gave me a menu that was in Nepalese but luckily it had English translation. So I ordered a "typical" Nepalese meal: Lamp skewed with vegetables, spicy vegetable tomato soup, Alu Dum (potatoes with gravy), dal baht (lentil and rice) and for dessert yanghm yi hau (white yogurt pudding) and ice coffee. I took my time with this meal so I could take advantage of their wi-fi to catch up on things. I was the last to leave around 3PM, this would be my only meal of the day. I'm going to try and do the Nepalese eating routine of only tea and "crumpets" for late breakfast, no lunch and one large meal for the day. After that wonderful meal that cost me $1000NR, about $11, I start walking back to the Patan Durfur area where I am staying, about a 25 minute walk. I pass through the Patan Durbur Square which is always buzzing due to the tourist attraction of the multiple temples and shrines in the square. The square is surrounded by a continuing bazaar for everything under the sun. I decide to stop and just do a bit of people watching. Just as I was about to get relaxed sitting against a wall of a 300 year old building that use to be a government lodge and offices, I was surrounded by four young teenagers. They were all in their proper school uniforms, all school children must wear the uniform of their school. Students in the "upper grades" must be a little more formal, ties for the young men. They were doing a project for school surveying for information from foreigners about their Nepal experience. Do I not look like a local? They were very nice and I started to fill out their survey. The one young man amongst the three young ladies noticed that I had put down US on my form. Well that opened up a whole new conversation. They had loads of questions about American way of life, places and sports. I also asked them about where they would like to visit if they visited the US. I got the typical Chicago, New York City, but the young man said Hollywood. I told him why and he said he wanted to be the first famous Nepalese actor. I explained to him about my daughter Sydney that lived in Hollywood (actually LA/Studio City) and acted, modeled and produced. Of course he ask for pictures, which I always carry on my kids and grandkids. He thought she was about 18-19 and ask if she had a boyfriend (aggressive little guy). I had to bust his bubble and tell him she was 28 and had a boyfriend that was 6' 3". They took a second to figure that out in centimeters and they laughed and seems our young man decided to back off. We finished our visit and they went on there way. This trip has taught me that the people like the American population, but not the politics/government. It's getting dark around 5:30 PM and you don't want to be walking around in the dark. Not because it is dangerous, but there are no street lights and the roads are horrific: pot holes, uneven walks and just plain dirt. I just had ankle reconstruction surgery and I don't need to be screwing that up. I hope to get a late drop off to sleep so I can get my time straightened out. I seem to have gotten over my jet lag.
Tuesday, November 18, 2014
November 18, 2014 Kkkkhhhaaatmandu, Flight, Taxi, Temples
Up at my usual this time around 2:30AM. This time I'm watching a movie on TV. They actually have a Fox Movies Channel that always has good movies on. I turn on the set and the Steve Jobs movie is on, I've been wanting to see this. Good flick, now its 4:30 AM and I'm planing on getting up by 7:30 to make a 10:30 AM flight. I'll lay here a few minutes...fell asleep woke up with my alarm at 7:30AM, boy do I feel dragged out.
I'm all packed, got my money out of the room safe. I drag my two bags, backpack and a gym bag down to the executive level on the 4th level. I walk in, lo and behold its my personal assistant again, greeting me with the friendly Thai welcome. She is already on the phone calling for the bell desk to pick up and store my bags. "Why don't you go ahead and have breakfast while they are on their way up"? Great idea, I finally get my free breakfast. A very filling breakfast, including a kitchen person making omelettes. The people here at the Hilton have the best customer service. I finish up just as my new best friend says the bags are checked into storage and here is your claim check. I grab my NorthFace BackPack and red gym bag, packing light so I don't have to check luggage. I get to the front door and get my usual Thai greeting and the doorman flags down a cab for me. He already negotiates a flat price for me at $300BHT, about $11US for a 18 mile trip to the airport.
There is no traffic heading out of Bangkok, so we make the airport in about 20 minutes. Today I'm flying Thai Airlines, my first flight with them. I'm flying coach since this trip is not part of my "free round the world" itinerary from Delta and Partners. Those of you that maybe missed an earlier blog, for 350,000 miles on Delta you can fly on an "Round the World" itinerary with up to seven stops along the way. Plus, any of my Hilton stays are free too, using miles.
I get inside this most beautiful new international airport and there is no line, probably because they have about 30 spots awaiting customers. I'm getting to the point that international airlines seem to be doing a better job at customer service than the US international carriers, even Kenya Airlines from last week. Immigration was a breeze. Speaking of breeze, its interesting how the airport air conditioning system works at this very high tech and innovative airport. There are no rooftop units. There are white grill looking panels that look like big doors that are continuing to push out cool air, which you need for this climate and the thousands of people in the airport. I never felt warm the entire time I was inside the terminal. My gate though is on the far side of the airport, so I have quite a jog. All through the airport are literally a few hundred stores to include the usual duty-free places, but they also have Tiffany's, Coach, Prada..it's like an airport version of Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Also there are several very nice restaurants, as well as the typical fast food places..there is actually a Dairy Queen. I've really never seen such a well decked out airport.
I arrive at the gate and they are just boarding. Since we are traveling to more of a third world country, I assume we will be using a small aircraft, nope its a B 777-300, one of the nicer aircraft on the market. The plane seats over 300, but their can't be more than 80 people waiting to board. I hate boarding early so I usually wait for last call, which I do this time as well.
We are escorted to a bus and we take a ride that seems to take us back in the direction from where I walked from inside the terminal. I climb the three wide staircase leading up to the very large plane. I had not noticed my seat assignment and I end up 50 rows back in coach and where I have one of those odd seats that has no window..really? Almost as soon as I start putting my bags up in the very large and roomy baggage bins, a flight attendant asks if I would like a better seat forward. Sure I do. I end up in the first row bulkhead window seat in coach, that is only two wide, and with no one next to me. Lots of leg room for the guy whom seems to be the tallest and largest person on the flight. About half the plane seems to be a Chinese tour group. I noticed them earlier, all in line with their flag bearing agent leading them onto the ramp to the buses. I put my luggage quickly in the overhead bin, since I believe I'm the last passenger to be seated.
Then I see something a bit peculiar. There is a Asian looking man coming on board with another very emaciated and gaunt looking man being carried by a white masked attendant of the airport. They both sit across the aisle in the middle rows of the seven across seats on the bulkhead. We are already to go, but there seems to be a delay, waiting for late boarding people. What? They never do that in the US. We wait about 20 minutes and we are finally on our way. The aircraft takes off and goes straight up in the air. I know these new B 777's can take off and get up in the air pretty quickly, they also take less runway to land.
During the beginning of the flight we are given hot towels...wait this is coach. Shortly after, a silver metal food wagon makes its way through the aisle. A meal? in coach.. for less than a three hour flight? I take the vegan choice of seafood pasta, salad, a WARM croissant with real butter. "Sir, would you like some wine with your meal?" I ask how much, and she looks at me with a very nice cocked head smile and says its with the meal. I ask for white and she says, "We have three types: blanc, chardonnay or a pinot gregio." I must admit I was a bit dumbfounded..so I picked the pinot. I still can't believe this is the cabin service for coach
As I'm having dinner, the young man that was carried onto the plane was starting to cough a bit heavily and in some distress. The man that came on board with him had sat across the aisle from me. The young man was sitting to his left in the middle row, middle seat. The man whispered to me not to worry what he has is not airborne contagious. I just left Africa, where even in Kenya people are a bit concerned about any sick person that might have Eboli. I think I need a little more information. So I asked if the young man was okay. The man leaned over and looked at the obvious uncomfortable young man who gave him a nod and mouthed, "it's okay". I then heard a most sorrowful story of this man's son who had attracted AIDS from being a heroin addict. They were going to Nepal for a "treatment of some notoriety" that was not offered anywhere but in Nepal. I really didn't know what to say but I said I was very sorry and good luck. The man said with somewhat glassing eyes, "We are out of luck, we are looking for a miracle".
Then the man politely said if I would like to change my seat, he would not take it personally. I sat right there and finished my meal. After I finished, the man next to me smiled again and said thank you. Now, I really wasn't concerned that this young man had AIDS, but it did make me think. It did me pause. Here I was taking this trip around the world seeing all what this world has to offer, while this young man was probably going to die soon. It really troubled me but I started to think that I needed to appreciate and be more aware of everyday that I'm on this earth, because you never know what karma may bring your way.
About an hour before landing as I was watching on my personal entertainment device..free as well, I started noticing these white clouds in the distance. After about 15 minutes more I realized they were mountains, not any mountains, but some of the tallest in the world, the Himalayans. The sky was pretty clear, so I took some pictures. Then I decided to try and film a few seconds of the panoramic view I had across the landscape. One picture could not show anyone the majestic feeling of seeing the mountains stretched over what I would think would be over hundreds of miles. I filmed about 60 seconds trying not to pan too fast. I tried and deleted about four sets of filming, but when the plane started taking a left in order to start the decent into the airport. Got it!
We started picking up clouds as we descended and soon we landed and the brakes were put on real hard, since this was a short runway, but our B 777 was up to the task. As were were landing I noticed the homes were all built straight up almost like the row houses in Amsterdam. The houses were all painted in bright sky blue, orange, pink, violet ...sort of "happy colors". I remember flying into Nairobi, seeing the thousands of homes while we were landing that didn't have any color to them. It looked like they were "tired".
As we are starting to taxi to the gate, I notice the large amount of small passenger prop planes...and they were not new ones. These were the ones that I thought I was getting on in Bangkok. We pull up to an old looking terminal that looked like it had not been painted for a few years. We were also the largest plane on the tarmac. Passengers were starting to disembark when I noticed a bald headed monk in a very bright orange robe was talking to the young man with AIDS. He was sitting next to him, hugging him and kissing him on the forehead while saying something to him. The young man was crying...then I started to well-up. I hope the young man has some sort of peace for the rest of his obvious short days ahead.
I'm one of the first off of the plane and think it will be a breeze through immigration and customs...not. There is a kiosk just before the empty lines in immigration that says, "If you have been in Africa in the last 30 days you must stop here". Great! The lady at he Health Check Desk seemed surprised that I stopped, as if she hasn't had a "customer" all day. She ask if I have been in Africa and I said yes. "Where, what country?". I told her Kenya and she says, " Is that one of the countries with Eboli?" Really you are asking me, aren't you suppose to be the expert. I said no that Kenya was in eastern Africa and the Eboli concerned countries were in western Africa. And then I tried not to laugh or smirk when she says, "are you sure?" I assured her the best I could, filled out the paperwork explaining where I had stayed and visited in Kenya. I received my "yellow pass" and proceeded to get at the end of the long line in immigration. I finally got to the visa check desk. I gave the gentleman my customs forms, passport, boarding pass and my "yellow heath check pass". The guy freaked out upon seeing the yellow document and called over a supervisor. The supervisor proceeded to ask the same questions as the Health Desk nurse. He also wasn't sure if Kenya was an Eboli stricken country and he proceeded to pick up to call someone. After his short conversation I was waved on and passed up luggage claim to head out the door. Customs was pretty simple, there were no desks, just about four people looking at luggage and asking questions. I was whisked through pretty fast.
I'm now outside and looking for my pre arranged car for the "guest house" that was set up on AirBNB, which I haven't had much luck. Two of the three places I've stayed in other countries was really bad. The guest house owners had told me a man would be there with a sign...nada after a 30 minute wait. I try to call the guest house but can't get a connection. So I realize, like in Manaus City in the Amazon, I'll have to find my own ride. Then I realize I did not exchange any money to the local rupee. I already passed through customs so I can't back track to any of the exchange sites that I noticed in baggage claim. So I ask a local security guy and he said I would have to go to the main terminal. Luckily this is not a big airport and the departures area was right next to the arrivals. I find a kiosk for money exchange and give the clerk $300US. He starts flicking off rupee bills after rupee bills until he has a wad of money he can barely fold in half and ends up having to give it to me in an envelope, about $27,000NR . The denominations in Nepal only max at $500 bills, so I have a wad of 52- $500NR's.
I stick the envelope into in my back BackPack, since it won't fit in my front pocket, where I always carry my wallet purse. I look for my "sign" and see no one. An older man, a local, comes up to me as asks if he can help. I'm obviously suspicious and said no thank you. He ask what guest house I was looking for and I decided what the heck. He asks for the phone number, the one I called that didn't work, so I give it to him. The worst could happen I will need to negotiate a ride from him. He hands me the phone and its the person at the guest house. Seems they thought I was on a Turkish Air flight, not a Thai Airline flight. They will have someone there shortly. I give the man his phone back and say thank you. He smiles and says something in Nepalese and walks away. The guy knew I looked a bit distressed and just wanted to help.
The car arrives and we are off through the streets of Kathmandu. Now, I always envisioned this city as a sparking one with green streets and happy people smiling as you waved to them in passing. Sort of a Shangri-La. No this city is congested with cars, motorcycles and the air is very smoggy with dust and vehicle exhaust . The streets are not lined so the traffic is a bit of a free for all. The outside shops and kiosks are plentiful but very old and dilapidated. I'm starting to get concerned if I'm going to be staying in this area, because it looks like a haven for trained terrorists. We drive for about 15 minutes more and start up a hilly area called Patan, the area is starting to look a little better. The streets are very narrow in the neighborhoods, barely enough room for two small cars to pass. One of the things I notice it that everyone honks their horn, even when no one is around!
We get to our guest house called the Cozy House and I'm greeted by a nice young man about 16-17 that speaks very good English, named Silas. He introduces me to a very attractive lady who speaks has a very French accented English, Camille. I'm led up an old but well painted metal stair case up to my 3rd floor room. Just as Silas was about to say something I crashed my head in the doorway. Seems the rooms have very low ceilings.... a little more than six feet, but the doorways you have to stoop to get through. The place is very quaint and clean, this is going to be just fine. I get a very good overview of the area and given a list of suggested cafes, places to see/go and the all important wi-fi.
They leave me alone and give me the keys to the place. I decide to do a walk about because I am getting a bit hungry and walk to an area called the Patan Durbur Square, that has several amazing temples that date back as far as the 1600's. It also serves as the local market for food and crafts. I walk around a bit and notice a few obvious tourists that stand out just like me. I find a lovely cafe that is on a rooftop that looks over the square called the Cafe Pagoda. I took some great pictures, since it sets on a rooftop over looking the scene of many temples, you can see on my FaceBook page.
I ordered a typical Nepalese dinner: chicken masa (chicken in spicy gravy), alli pulsotareko (fried veggies in dark gravy), yanghu yi hali (white yogurt pudding), dal ghat (rice and lentil soup) along with very thinly sliced tomatoes, carrots, some type of white radish and onion. And to top it off a bottle of their local beer called Everest...of course. The meal also is accompanied with a very thin large fried potato that tastes like spiced potato chips which I didn't get the name. I actual ask for an additional serving. The entire meal with the beer costs $895NR or a little less than $9US.
I come back to my guest house because it is getting dark at about 6PM. I start planning out the next few days and can't wait to find out more about this country, customs and people.
I'm all packed, got my money out of the room safe. I drag my two bags, backpack and a gym bag down to the executive level on the 4th level. I walk in, lo and behold its my personal assistant again, greeting me with the friendly Thai welcome. She is already on the phone calling for the bell desk to pick up and store my bags. "Why don't you go ahead and have breakfast while they are on their way up"? Great idea, I finally get my free breakfast. A very filling breakfast, including a kitchen person making omelettes. The people here at the Hilton have the best customer service. I finish up just as my new best friend says the bags are checked into storage and here is your claim check. I grab my NorthFace BackPack and red gym bag, packing light so I don't have to check luggage. I get to the front door and get my usual Thai greeting and the doorman flags down a cab for me. He already negotiates a flat price for me at $300BHT, about $11US for a 18 mile trip to the airport.
There is no traffic heading out of Bangkok, so we make the airport in about 20 minutes. Today I'm flying Thai Airlines, my first flight with them. I'm flying coach since this trip is not part of my "free round the world" itinerary from Delta and Partners. Those of you that maybe missed an earlier blog, for 350,000 miles on Delta you can fly on an "Round the World" itinerary with up to seven stops along the way. Plus, any of my Hilton stays are free too, using miles.
I get inside this most beautiful new international airport and there is no line, probably because they have about 30 spots awaiting customers. I'm getting to the point that international airlines seem to be doing a better job at customer service than the US international carriers, even Kenya Airlines from last week. Immigration was a breeze. Speaking of breeze, its interesting how the airport air conditioning system works at this very high tech and innovative airport. There are no rooftop units. There are white grill looking panels that look like big doors that are continuing to push out cool air, which you need for this climate and the thousands of people in the airport. I never felt warm the entire time I was inside the terminal. My gate though is on the far side of the airport, so I have quite a jog. All through the airport are literally a few hundred stores to include the usual duty-free places, but they also have Tiffany's, Coach, Prada..it's like an airport version of Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Also there are several very nice restaurants, as well as the typical fast food places..there is actually a Dairy Queen. I've really never seen such a well decked out airport.
I arrive at the gate and they are just boarding. Since we are traveling to more of a third world country, I assume we will be using a small aircraft, nope its a B 777-300, one of the nicer aircraft on the market. The plane seats over 300, but their can't be more than 80 people waiting to board. I hate boarding early so I usually wait for last call, which I do this time as well.
We are escorted to a bus and we take a ride that seems to take us back in the direction from where I walked from inside the terminal. I climb the three wide staircase leading up to the very large plane. I had not noticed my seat assignment and I end up 50 rows back in coach and where I have one of those odd seats that has no window..really? Almost as soon as I start putting my bags up in the very large and roomy baggage bins, a flight attendant asks if I would like a better seat forward. Sure I do. I end up in the first row bulkhead window seat in coach, that is only two wide, and with no one next to me. Lots of leg room for the guy whom seems to be the tallest and largest person on the flight. About half the plane seems to be a Chinese tour group. I noticed them earlier, all in line with their flag bearing agent leading them onto the ramp to the buses. I put my luggage quickly in the overhead bin, since I believe I'm the last passenger to be seated.
Then I see something a bit peculiar. There is a Asian looking man coming on board with another very emaciated and gaunt looking man being carried by a white masked attendant of the airport. They both sit across the aisle in the middle rows of the seven across seats on the bulkhead. We are already to go, but there seems to be a delay, waiting for late boarding people. What? They never do that in the US. We wait about 20 minutes and we are finally on our way. The aircraft takes off and goes straight up in the air. I know these new B 777's can take off and get up in the air pretty quickly, they also take less runway to land.
During the beginning of the flight we are given hot towels...wait this is coach. Shortly after, a silver metal food wagon makes its way through the aisle. A meal? in coach.. for less than a three hour flight? I take the vegan choice of seafood pasta, salad, a WARM croissant with real butter. "Sir, would you like some wine with your meal?" I ask how much, and she looks at me with a very nice cocked head smile and says its with the meal. I ask for white and she says, "We have three types: blanc, chardonnay or a pinot gregio." I must admit I was a bit dumbfounded..so I picked the pinot. I still can't believe this is the cabin service for coach
As I'm having dinner, the young man that was carried onto the plane was starting to cough a bit heavily and in some distress. The man that came on board with him had sat across the aisle from me. The young man was sitting to his left in the middle row, middle seat. The man whispered to me not to worry what he has is not airborne contagious. I just left Africa, where even in Kenya people are a bit concerned about any sick person that might have Eboli. I think I need a little more information. So I asked if the young man was okay. The man leaned over and looked at the obvious uncomfortable young man who gave him a nod and mouthed, "it's okay". I then heard a most sorrowful story of this man's son who had attracted AIDS from being a heroin addict. They were going to Nepal for a "treatment of some notoriety" that was not offered anywhere but in Nepal. I really didn't know what to say but I said I was very sorry and good luck. The man said with somewhat glassing eyes, "We are out of luck, we are looking for a miracle".
Then the man politely said if I would like to change my seat, he would not take it personally. I sat right there and finished my meal. After I finished, the man next to me smiled again and said thank you. Now, I really wasn't concerned that this young man had AIDS, but it did make me think. It did me pause. Here I was taking this trip around the world seeing all what this world has to offer, while this young man was probably going to die soon. It really troubled me but I started to think that I needed to appreciate and be more aware of everyday that I'm on this earth, because you never know what karma may bring your way.
About an hour before landing as I was watching on my personal entertainment device..free as well, I started noticing these white clouds in the distance. After about 15 minutes more I realized they were mountains, not any mountains, but some of the tallest in the world, the Himalayans. The sky was pretty clear, so I took some pictures. Then I decided to try and film a few seconds of the panoramic view I had across the landscape. One picture could not show anyone the majestic feeling of seeing the mountains stretched over what I would think would be over hundreds of miles. I filmed about 60 seconds trying not to pan too fast. I tried and deleted about four sets of filming, but when the plane started taking a left in order to start the decent into the airport. Got it!
We started picking up clouds as we descended and soon we landed and the brakes were put on real hard, since this was a short runway, but our B 777 was up to the task. As were were landing I noticed the homes were all built straight up almost like the row houses in Amsterdam. The houses were all painted in bright sky blue, orange, pink, violet ...sort of "happy colors". I remember flying into Nairobi, seeing the thousands of homes while we were landing that didn't have any color to them. It looked like they were "tired".
As we are starting to taxi to the gate, I notice the large amount of small passenger prop planes...and they were not new ones. These were the ones that I thought I was getting on in Bangkok. We pull up to an old looking terminal that looked like it had not been painted for a few years. We were also the largest plane on the tarmac. Passengers were starting to disembark when I noticed a bald headed monk in a very bright orange robe was talking to the young man with AIDS. He was sitting next to him, hugging him and kissing him on the forehead while saying something to him. The young man was crying...then I started to well-up. I hope the young man has some sort of peace for the rest of his obvious short days ahead.
I'm one of the first off of the plane and think it will be a breeze through immigration and customs...not. There is a kiosk just before the empty lines in immigration that says, "If you have been in Africa in the last 30 days you must stop here". Great! The lady at he Health Check Desk seemed surprised that I stopped, as if she hasn't had a "customer" all day. She ask if I have been in Africa and I said yes. "Where, what country?". I told her Kenya and she says, " Is that one of the countries with Eboli?" Really you are asking me, aren't you suppose to be the expert. I said no that Kenya was in eastern Africa and the Eboli concerned countries were in western Africa. And then I tried not to laugh or smirk when she says, "are you sure?" I assured her the best I could, filled out the paperwork explaining where I had stayed and visited in Kenya. I received my "yellow pass" and proceeded to get at the end of the long line in immigration. I finally got to the visa check desk. I gave the gentleman my customs forms, passport, boarding pass and my "yellow heath check pass". The guy freaked out upon seeing the yellow document and called over a supervisor. The supervisor proceeded to ask the same questions as the Health Desk nurse. He also wasn't sure if Kenya was an Eboli stricken country and he proceeded to pick up to call someone. After his short conversation I was waved on and passed up luggage claim to head out the door. Customs was pretty simple, there were no desks, just about four people looking at luggage and asking questions. I was whisked through pretty fast.
I'm now outside and looking for my pre arranged car for the "guest house" that was set up on AirBNB, which I haven't had much luck. Two of the three places I've stayed in other countries was really bad. The guest house owners had told me a man would be there with a sign...nada after a 30 minute wait. I try to call the guest house but can't get a connection. So I realize, like in Manaus City in the Amazon, I'll have to find my own ride. Then I realize I did not exchange any money to the local rupee. I already passed through customs so I can't back track to any of the exchange sites that I noticed in baggage claim. So I ask a local security guy and he said I would have to go to the main terminal. Luckily this is not a big airport and the departures area was right next to the arrivals. I find a kiosk for money exchange and give the clerk $300US. He starts flicking off rupee bills after rupee bills until he has a wad of money he can barely fold in half and ends up having to give it to me in an envelope, about $27,000NR . The denominations in Nepal only max at $500 bills, so I have a wad of 52- $500NR's.
I stick the envelope into in my back BackPack, since it won't fit in my front pocket, where I always carry my wallet purse. I look for my "sign" and see no one. An older man, a local, comes up to me as asks if he can help. I'm obviously suspicious and said no thank you. He ask what guest house I was looking for and I decided what the heck. He asks for the phone number, the one I called that didn't work, so I give it to him. The worst could happen I will need to negotiate a ride from him. He hands me the phone and its the person at the guest house. Seems they thought I was on a Turkish Air flight, not a Thai Airline flight. They will have someone there shortly. I give the man his phone back and say thank you. He smiles and says something in Nepalese and walks away. The guy knew I looked a bit distressed and just wanted to help.
The car arrives and we are off through the streets of Kathmandu. Now, I always envisioned this city as a sparking one with green streets and happy people smiling as you waved to them in passing. Sort of a Shangri-La. No this city is congested with cars, motorcycles and the air is very smoggy with dust and vehicle exhaust . The streets are not lined so the traffic is a bit of a free for all. The outside shops and kiosks are plentiful but very old and dilapidated. I'm starting to get concerned if I'm going to be staying in this area, because it looks like a haven for trained terrorists. We drive for about 15 minutes more and start up a hilly area called Patan, the area is starting to look a little better. The streets are very narrow in the neighborhoods, barely enough room for two small cars to pass. One of the things I notice it that everyone honks their horn, even when no one is around!
We get to our guest house called the Cozy House and I'm greeted by a nice young man about 16-17 that speaks very good English, named Silas. He introduces me to a very attractive lady who speaks has a very French accented English, Camille. I'm led up an old but well painted metal stair case up to my 3rd floor room. Just as Silas was about to say something I crashed my head in the doorway. Seems the rooms have very low ceilings.... a little more than six feet, but the doorways you have to stoop to get through. The place is very quaint and clean, this is going to be just fine. I get a very good overview of the area and given a list of suggested cafes, places to see/go and the all important wi-fi.
They leave me alone and give me the keys to the place. I decide to do a walk about because I am getting a bit hungry and walk to an area called the Patan Durbur Square, that has several amazing temples that date back as far as the 1600's. It also serves as the local market for food and crafts. I walk around a bit and notice a few obvious tourists that stand out just like me. I find a lovely cafe that is on a rooftop that looks over the square called the Cafe Pagoda. I took some great pictures, since it sets on a rooftop over looking the scene of many temples, you can see on my FaceBook page.
I ordered a typical Nepalese dinner: chicken masa (chicken in spicy gravy), alli pulsotareko (fried veggies in dark gravy), yanghu yi hali (white yogurt pudding), dal ghat (rice and lentil soup) along with very thinly sliced tomatoes, carrots, some type of white radish and onion. And to top it off a bottle of their local beer called Everest...of course. The meal also is accompanied with a very thin large fried potato that tastes like spiced potato chips which I didn't get the name. I actual ask for an additional serving. The entire meal with the beer costs $895NR or a little less than $9US.
I come back to my guest house because it is getting dark at about 6PM. I start planning out the next few days and can't wait to find out more about this country, customs and people.
November 17, 2014 Sleepless in Bangkok, Ready for Kathmandu, Pool
Oh crap its up at 3AM. I decide to do a
little reading of the novel I started just before I left the US, by John
Gresham, my favorite contemporary author. Additionally, I'm officially
half way through my adventure. It really doesn't seem like I've been away
for 5 weeks. I realize today, as well, would have been my late father's
birthday. I still am mad he died when he did over three years ago.
He is not the last person I will see in the coming years suffer then
stopped in their tracks by smoking. It is frustrating still seeing
friends and family smoke so much because I know it will kill them.
Okay off my soapbox. Like the other early mornings,
I fall back asleep and wake up around 11AM. I missed the free breakfast
again. I think I should check out the pool that is on the 26th floor and top
floor of the hotel. I get arrive expecting a full house on a 90 plus degree
day, but there is no one around. I just see a beautiful edgeless pool
that seems to empty into the backdrop of the Bangkok skyline. After about
an hour, a few more people trickle in. Maybe they have had insomnia as
well and just woke up. I'm laying there, almost ready to drift off and I
smell it...cigarette smoke. There are three Asian ladies, about in their
mid twenties, just puffing away, it makes me sad. I can't stand the
smoke, never could, even when my dad would be puffing away at the dinner table
while the family ate.
I roll off my low slung pool side chaise lounge
chair and take the elevator back down to the 18th floor. I decide to go ahead
and start packing for my trip to Kathmandu, Nepal in the morning. I have
to take out all my clothes from my big 60 lbs. wheeled duffle bag because all
my cool/cold weather attire is at the bottom of my bag. The last time I
used the long sleeve pants/shirts, grey wool hooded swather (the one my
daughter Sydney got me for Christmas one year), my Detroit Tiger "D"
sock cap and light jacket was in the cool and damp Amsterdam. I also need
to do a little tub and shower clothes washing. I'm getting pretty good at
this. I have learned not to use as much soap, cool rinse after and wring
those suckers out real tight so it doesn't take two days to dry. Plus, I
don't want to stick too may sweaty clothes at the bottom of my baggage.
My plan is to store my big roller bag and my "souvenir"
suitcase at the hotel since I will be coming back here Saturday.
I finish my "chores" and head out for a walk about.
There really isn't much around the hotel, except new tall
"business" buildings and a few restaurants. I decide to go back
to the hotel and have free happy hour, since I didn't get my free breakfast
this morning. I head back to the hotel where Im greeted by the usual
"praying hands" and bow from the doorman. The elevator takes me up to
the 4th floor and a young lady greets me by name and asks if I need help in the
morning storing my bags for my trip to Kathmandu. Wow, that is
impressive. This is the same lady that checked me in on the executive
floor when I first arrived three days ago. I had told her my plan for checking
in, then checking out for my Nepalese trip and then checking back in Saturday.
She remembered. The finger food is a wide collection of three kinds of sushi,
chicken skewers, lamb meat balls, cheeses, breads, desserts and my favorite
open bar. I take my small appetizer plate, that isn''t much bigger than a
coffee cup saucer and load up...I go back three times. Tonight a change
of pace, let's try scotch because my favorite, Johhny Walker Black, is
beaconing me to stop by and visit. I have about three of my blended
Scottish friend on the rocks. Okay, now its 8PM...don't go to sleep yet.
I decided to join a couple of chaps that I find out are from Wales
(England, for those geography deficient readers) watch qualifying for the
European Cup (soccer for those sports deficient readers). I bypass the
JWB for a Chinese Tsing-Tao (that's a beer for those deficiently uneducated
booze readers).
The game is over, and my new pals are not a very
talkative pair, and its just after 10PM. Okay here we go again.
I've had three scotches, two beers that ought to do it. I get back
to my room, check my damp clothes...they should be dry by morning.
Tick-tock, tick-tock...its midnight...
Monday, November 17, 2014
November 16, 2014 No Sleep, Sky Train, Oriental Hotel, Pat Pong
The problem is it's 1AM. I also have a splitting headache which with no sleep are telltale signs of jet lag. I do everything I can think of to get back to sleep: warm bath (place has a bathtub, yeah), reading, play my sleep music of Ravi Shankar, I even take a sleeping tablet...nada. I lay awake and it's about 6AM, so I start thinking I should just go ahead and get up for the day. Seems as soon as I thought that I fell fast asleep. Since I didn't put the Do Not Disturb light on, there is a knock at my door around noon for maid service. Okay let's put in a full day and try this routine again later tonight.
Ive already missed my free breakfast at the executive suite, so I plan out my day. First, I need to figure out the transportation system. I walk over to the Sky Train stop which is just two blocks from the hotel. I find a kiosk with a friendly gesturing lady that speaks very good english and buy a day pass which is good on any transportation vehicle: sky train, subway, bus, all except the train. It cost $120BHT, about $3.50US...thats all? I find a route, that requires a change to a different sky train, to one of my all time favorite hotels in the world. That is saying a lot considering I haven't been to this hotel in over 25 years. The Oriental Hotel, which is now the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, is truly a unique hotel with over a 100 year history, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandarin_Oriental,_Bangkok,
read this for history. I walk into the lobby and note all the people in dressy casual, Im in shorts and rust colored short sleeve shirt. I had forgotten the dress code for the hotel. I decide to accept my embarrassment and head quickly to one of the many lounges (most dress code required). I walk through the hotel to the back where I remember a bar area that sat right on the Chao Phraya River. It's a great spot to watch the many boats, including a Thai boat referred to as a "long tail boat." The long tail boats are long and narrow, in order to get throughout the small canals that are part of the cities charm. The "tail" is an engine that is attached to a very long metal pole (8-12 feet long) that a standing person holds that also serves as a rudder. These babies can go really fast, up to 50 MPH on the water. The waiter doesn't seem to be concerned about my dress and directs me to a very nice table with a view of the river. I order up an Oriental Hotel signature mixed drink, actually called Signature Drink: vodka (or gin), grapefruit, raspberry and honey berry. Along with the drinks comes a bowl of hot chestnuts. I remember having dinner with Beth here one night many years ago under a canvas tent, eating one of the spiciest but delicious meals I've had, while the rain poured on the safety of our tent.
I finish my second "Signature" and go to the row of stores within the hotel grounds. Very nice stuff. I remember a smoke shop from before and sought it out. I remember it was within the hotel before but can't seem to find it. I ask the concierge and he says, "You haven't been here for a while have you?", he explained once the hotel went non-smoking inside over 10 years ago, it was moved to a small place in the very back and on the lower arcade of the shopping area. I finally found it and noticed the lady watching over the register. After a short conversation, I realize she is the same lady that had that smoke shop back in the 80's, I suspect she is in her late 70's by now. I find the Cuban cigar that Al Capone was famous for smoking. Okay do I buy one or the box of twelve? I have to decide if I can get them past customs in US. "Give me a box". Now I have something, hopefully, to give to some of my friends in US. I'm getting a bit hungry, since I didn't have breakfast/lunch... only had a couple of drinks and chestnuts today. But, I don't meet the dress code.
I get back on the sky train that is within 4 blocks and head back to the Hilton hotel. Along the way I notice the many new stores. Bangkok has developed into a well conceived business plan. Before I get to my stop I remember the Pat Pong night market from my trip here before as well. It is a market that opens at night and runs through midnight. Pat Pong Street is also Bangkok's red light district. I get off at the proper stop and walk the three blocks to the market. It is huge. I start to walk down one of the shopping lanes and it goes on for about 6-7 blocks. The shops are all about the same size, about 6ft across and 12-15 ft deep. Everything you can think of is for sale. The most prominent stores are women's shoes. I must have gone by at least three dozen of these shops selling shoes for $99 BHT, about $3US. Thats all shoes, not "starting from". Also nail technicians were doing nails for $99 Baht. Seems $99 Baht is the key price at most shops. There are also several tattoo parlors...pass. I'll eat larvae in the Amazon jungle, but no tattoos. I spent about an hour looking around, bought nothing and started to see the same thing over and over. I decide to take my curious mind and "stray" out to the red light district because of my tourist obligation. This red light area is different than Amsterdam because here there are hawkers trying to swing you into their patrons. It certainly is much seedier and louder with music than the laid back casual affair in Amsterdam. I realize I am the perfect person to go after, by these male hawkers: white caucasian, over 6ft tall, though my shorts and short sleeve outfit seems to fit this locale. Also I'm the tallest person in sight. The general going price screams out at one, "$1000 baht!" Thanks but no, just visiting...really.
I get back to the quite confines of my hotel and eat at the Italian restaurant on the second floor, looking over the shiny white/gray Italian marbled floor lobby. I have a couple glasses of chianti to go with my angel hair seafood pasta. Okay, I should be tired and its 10PM. The hotel is very quiet for a Sunday night, so there isn't a bar or lounge to hangout. I go back to room. I take a shower since Ive been sweltering in the 90-94 degree weather all day. Okay let's get to sleep! Nada, same routine, up until midnight.
Ive already missed my free breakfast at the executive suite, so I plan out my day. First, I need to figure out the transportation system. I walk over to the Sky Train stop which is just two blocks from the hotel. I find a kiosk with a friendly gesturing lady that speaks very good english and buy a day pass which is good on any transportation vehicle: sky train, subway, bus, all except the train. It cost $120BHT, about $3.50US...thats all? I find a route, that requires a change to a different sky train, to one of my all time favorite hotels in the world. That is saying a lot considering I haven't been to this hotel in over 25 years. The Oriental Hotel, which is now the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, is truly a unique hotel with over a 100 year history, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandarin_Oriental,_Bangkok,
read this for history. I walk into the lobby and note all the people in dressy casual, Im in shorts and rust colored short sleeve shirt. I had forgotten the dress code for the hotel. I decide to accept my embarrassment and head quickly to one of the many lounges (most dress code required). I walk through the hotel to the back where I remember a bar area that sat right on the Chao Phraya River. It's a great spot to watch the many boats, including a Thai boat referred to as a "long tail boat." The long tail boats are long and narrow, in order to get throughout the small canals that are part of the cities charm. The "tail" is an engine that is attached to a very long metal pole (8-12 feet long) that a standing person holds that also serves as a rudder. These babies can go really fast, up to 50 MPH on the water. The waiter doesn't seem to be concerned about my dress and directs me to a very nice table with a view of the river. I order up an Oriental Hotel signature mixed drink, actually called Signature Drink: vodka (or gin), grapefruit, raspberry and honey berry. Along with the drinks comes a bowl of hot chestnuts. I remember having dinner with Beth here one night many years ago under a canvas tent, eating one of the spiciest but delicious meals I've had, while the rain poured on the safety of our tent.
I finish my second "Signature" and go to the row of stores within the hotel grounds. Very nice stuff. I remember a smoke shop from before and sought it out. I remember it was within the hotel before but can't seem to find it. I ask the concierge and he says, "You haven't been here for a while have you?", he explained once the hotel went non-smoking inside over 10 years ago, it was moved to a small place in the very back and on the lower arcade of the shopping area. I finally found it and noticed the lady watching over the register. After a short conversation, I realize she is the same lady that had that smoke shop back in the 80's, I suspect she is in her late 70's by now. I find the Cuban cigar that Al Capone was famous for smoking. Okay do I buy one or the box of twelve? I have to decide if I can get them past customs in US. "Give me a box". Now I have something, hopefully, to give to some of my friends in US. I'm getting a bit hungry, since I didn't have breakfast/lunch... only had a couple of drinks and chestnuts today. But, I don't meet the dress code.
I get back on the sky train that is within 4 blocks and head back to the Hilton hotel. Along the way I notice the many new stores. Bangkok has developed into a well conceived business plan. Before I get to my stop I remember the Pat Pong night market from my trip here before as well. It is a market that opens at night and runs through midnight. Pat Pong Street is also Bangkok's red light district. I get off at the proper stop and walk the three blocks to the market. It is huge. I start to walk down one of the shopping lanes and it goes on for about 6-7 blocks. The shops are all about the same size, about 6ft across and 12-15 ft deep. Everything you can think of is for sale. The most prominent stores are women's shoes. I must have gone by at least three dozen of these shops selling shoes for $99 BHT, about $3US. Thats all shoes, not "starting from". Also nail technicians were doing nails for $99 Baht. Seems $99 Baht is the key price at most shops. There are also several tattoo parlors...pass. I'll eat larvae in the Amazon jungle, but no tattoos. I spent about an hour looking around, bought nothing and started to see the same thing over and over. I decide to take my curious mind and "stray" out to the red light district because of my tourist obligation. This red light area is different than Amsterdam because here there are hawkers trying to swing you into their patrons. It certainly is much seedier and louder with music than the laid back casual affair in Amsterdam. I realize I am the perfect person to go after, by these male hawkers: white caucasian, over 6ft tall, though my shorts and short sleeve outfit seems to fit this locale. Also I'm the tallest person in sight. The general going price screams out at one, "$1000 baht!" Thanks but no, just visiting...really.
I get back to the quite confines of my hotel and eat at the Italian restaurant on the second floor, looking over the shiny white/gray Italian marbled floor lobby. I have a couple glasses of chianti to go with my angel hair seafood pasta. Okay, I should be tired and its 10PM. The hotel is very quiet for a Sunday night, so there isn't a bar or lounge to hangout. I go back to room. I take a shower since Ive been sweltering in the 90-94 degree weather all day. Okay let's get to sleep! Nada, same routine, up until midnight.
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