Thursday, November 20, 2014
November 19, 2014 Walk About in Kathmandu, Cafe Dhokaima, People Watching
Well up at 4AM, back to sleep at 6AM, back up at 11AM. EGADS! Before the day begins I am sending my daughter Erika a Happy Birthday message in Nepalese. She turns 42 today or tomorrow in her part of the world.I'm taking a walk-about (term I picked up in Australia for a stroll) to a little more out of my comfort zone. I'm going to an area known for a little seedier clientele, but prices are better on things. I'm using my Google Maps app, which is proving to be very helpful because the map I bought yesterday seems to missing streets and/or their names. Also learned a trick with Google Maps. If you download the app before you go out, you don't have to have wi-fi or have to turn on your data off your phone. It will work with everything off. So I am heading to an area called Patan Dhoka where the Golden Temple is located. The area was initially designed in the shape of the Buddhist Dharma-Chakra (Wheel of Righteousness). The word Patan, by the way, is the area of Khatmandu that I am staying. It would be like calling it south side of Chicago. The Patan Dhoka is best known for its rich cultural heritage, particularly its tradition in arts and crafts. I did find a nice buy on 100% certified pashmina, not the stuff they try and pass off as pashmina on the streets of NYC. Pashmina is the fine delicate warm wool of Capra Hiscus, a goat that lives in the high attitude of 14,000-16,000 feet in the Himalayas. The inner coat of the goat is called pashmina. Most pashmina products that are shipped to US and other countries are a blend of pashmina and other wool of different animals. After visiting the Golden Buddha, which is a Buddha of gold, I find a cafe that was recommended by a guide book that was provided at the guest house where I'm staying, Cafe Dhokaima. The information had told me not to be disturbed about the seedy location, because once you enter the doorway I would be pleased. It was right on, once you enter, past the unattractive area and bad signage, a whole new world with a beautiful garden setting with colorful flowers, greenery and white clothed tables for 2 or 4. I actually had to wait 15 minutes for a table to open up. Once I was seated the waitperson gave me a menu that was in Nepalese but luckily it had English translation. So I ordered a "typical" Nepalese meal: Lamp skewed with vegetables, spicy vegetable tomato soup, Alu Dum (potatoes with gravy), dal baht (lentil and rice) and for dessert yanghm yi hau (white yogurt pudding) and ice coffee. I took my time with this meal so I could take advantage of their wi-fi to catch up on things. I was the last to leave around 3PM, this would be my only meal of the day. I'm going to try and do the Nepalese eating routine of only tea and "crumpets" for late breakfast, no lunch and one large meal for the day. After that wonderful meal that cost me $1000NR, about $11, I start walking back to the Patan Durfur area where I am staying, about a 25 minute walk. I pass through the Patan Durbur Square which is always buzzing due to the tourist attraction of the multiple temples and shrines in the square. The square is surrounded by a continuing bazaar for everything under the sun. I decide to stop and just do a bit of people watching. Just as I was about to get relaxed sitting against a wall of a 300 year old building that use to be a government lodge and offices, I was surrounded by four young teenagers. They were all in their proper school uniforms, all school children must wear the uniform of their school. Students in the "upper grades" must be a little more formal, ties for the young men. They were doing a project for school surveying for information from foreigners about their Nepal experience. Do I not look like a local? They were very nice and I started to fill out their survey. The one young man amongst the three young ladies noticed that I had put down US on my form. Well that opened up a whole new conversation. They had loads of questions about American way of life, places and sports. I also asked them about where they would like to visit if they visited the US. I got the typical Chicago, New York City, but the young man said Hollywood. I told him why and he said he wanted to be the first famous Nepalese actor. I explained to him about my daughter Sydney that lived in Hollywood (actually LA/Studio City) and acted, modeled and produced. Of course he ask for pictures, which I always carry on my kids and grandkids. He thought she was about 18-19 and ask if she had a boyfriend (aggressive little guy). I had to bust his bubble and tell him she was 28 and had a boyfriend that was 6' 3". They took a second to figure that out in centimeters and they laughed and seems our young man decided to back off. We finished our visit and they went on there way. This trip has taught me that the people like the American population, but not the politics/government. It's getting dark around 5:30 PM and you don't want to be walking around in the dark. Not because it is dangerous, but there are no street lights and the roads are horrific: pot holes, uneven walks and just plain dirt. I just had ankle reconstruction surgery and I don't need to be screwing that up. I hope to get a late drop off to sleep so I can get my time straightened out. I seem to have gotten over my jet lag.
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